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Underlining Basics

Video: Jeff Roos, Cari Delahanty. Tech Editor: Carol Fresia

Threads author Daryl Lancaster explains the basics of underlining: adding a layer of fabric beneath the fashion fabric to support it and to hide show-through from seam allowances or other internal construction details. In many cases, Daryl suggests using an underlining rather than a separate hanging lining, as it makes future alterations easier.

Anything that can work for lining is appropriate for underlining, as long as it has body. There are sew-in underlinings, as well as fusible options.

SiBonne: This tailoring material, made by Armo, is no longer available, but Daryl recommends it if you can find a bolt online. It is made of rayon, has an anti-static finish, and it has a crisp hand. A good substitute would be silk organza.

Cotton flannel: Readily available, cotton flannel adds warmth as well as support. Worn flannel sheets can be upcycled as an underlining.

Silk saris: Used saris are crisp but…

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