Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King often finds inspiration for garment details in vintage apparel. In this video, he shares a 1950s coat with a two-tone collar and welt pocket, and walks through his method for creating the patterns needed to duplicate the look.

Create the pattern

The coat’s collar is edged with a contrasting fabric band. To make the pattern for this collar, start by drawing the full collar piece, minus seam allowances. Then mark the desired seamline where the contrast band will be attached. From this pattern, trace the separate band section and the inner collar section patterns. On the band section, also include the full collar outline. Add seam allowances.

Kenneth briefly discusses the pocket welt design as well. This is covered in greater detail in the Origami Welt Pocket video.

Cut the fabric

Cut the inner collar section from the main fabric. From contrasting fabric, cut the full collar, and mark the band’s inner seamline and cutting line. To avoid possible distortion, don’t cut along the band’s inner cutting line until you are ready to sew.

Watch Kenneth’s technique for joining the band to the collar. This involves two inset corners, and he’ll show you how to handle the pieces for sharp, smooth corners.