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Adjust Patterns for a Smooth Hem on Tapered Pants and Sleeves

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Avoid dreaded wrinkled hems on tapered pant legs and create smooth hems instead, with a simple correction to your pants pattern.

Like many of us, you probably have been there: You’ve reached the last stages of finishing a beautiful garment. You fold up the hem allowance to find there’s not enough fabric in the circumference to create a smooth hem. You pull and pull. Still, you don’t have enough. Bravely, you hem the garment anyway. You discover that even pressing with steam won’t make those dreaded wrinkles go away. Here’s a way to fix a pattern so that you won’t have this issue again.

I’ll show you what happens when you end up with a pattern that may be incorrectly drafted at the hem—and how to fix it.

Note: The pants pattern used in the samples is Vogue 1841, a Calvin Klein design (out of print), and it was drafted correctly. The legs have a tapered style. They are full through the thigh…

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