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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: By Hand London Rumana Coat

Threads Issue #212, Dec. 2020/Jan. 2021
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By Hand London: Rumana Coat

This princess-seamed coat has lapels, a notched collar with a partial collar stand, two-piece sleeves, and a center-back vent. The design also features pockets with faux welt openings, set at a slant between the side-front and side seams.

  • The ease at the bust and hip is approximately 2-1/2 inches, which is not sufficient for a coat. Consider grading the pattern out by a size or several sizes in snug areas to enable the coat to close properly over other garments.
  • The pattern would benefit from additional notches and markings. Key reference points such as bust point, waist level, and full-hip level are not marked. The back vent does not have a marked foldline, and there are no dots to mark the match point for the collar/lapel junction or the lining’s center-back seam at the top of the vent. Also, the pocket pieces have no notches to help with construction.
  • There were several inaccuracies in the instructions. In the drawing depicting the pocket bag installation, the pocket piece is flipped 180 degrees. The back vent is reversed in one illustration—it should point left, not right. The printed lining instructions are incomplete and the illustrations are inaccurate. Better instructions are found in a multipart sew-along at the company website, but they still produce a bulky hem with bubbling at the back vent. Look for alternative instructions for installing a lining, and handsew the lining to the vent edges for a smoother result.

Our tester found the yardage recommendations for the fabric and interfacing to be generous. The pattern calls for one button, but there are multiple button placements marked on the pattern. Wool and wool-blend fabrics work best, as the sleeve cap has considerable ease and other fabrics may not sit smoothly.

(Sized 2–20 [UK 6–24] for busts 32–51 in. and hips 35–54 in.)   

ByHandLondon.com

—Tested by Carol J. Fresia, Woodbury, Connecticut

By Hand London Rumana Coat pattern

Sewing tip: Consider adding a sleeve head to support the sleeve cap.

This review was originally published in Threads #212, December 2020/January 2021. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Illustrations by Steven Fleck.

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