A Classic Made Modern

Simplicity.com

Skill Level:

For intermediate sewers looking to learn tailoring skills. The sewing is straightforward. Our tester says the most difficult task is pressing the collar and lapel correctly.

Size Range and Fitting:

Men’s sizes 34 to 46 fit chests 34 inches to 46 inches, and hips 35 inches to 47 inches. It is a slim-fitting coat in two lengths: 29-3/4 inches or 35-3/4 inches at center back. This style may need more ease to layer over bulky garments.

Fabrics:

Try tweed, brocade, wool blends, gabardine, denim, medium to heavy silk suiting, or wool plaids. Plaids require matching, a task for experienced sewers. Consider a silk or rayon print lining.

Style and Sewing Details:

This tailored single-breasted coat is designed with a notched collar/lapel that stands up and inward for a contemporary look. Unlike traditional collars and lapels, this design has a one-piece collar and a lapel cut separately from the front. It is a style easily adaptable to everyday wear or, in a luxurious fabric, for special occasions.

• Details include a two-button closure, two single-welt pockets on the exterior and one double-welt inside chest pocket on the left.
• The two-piece sleeves have a mitered vent and three nonfunctional buttons sewn on top.
• Darts originating at the welt pockets shape the waist. There are side-front and side-back seams (no side seams), and a center-back vent for walking ease.
• The coat is fully lined and has shoulder pads. Our tester recommends sleeve heads, which will improve the look and quality of the finished coat.
• Test fusible interfacings on the fashion fabric, as some coating fabrics (such as gabardine) are not well-suited for fusibles and require sew-in interfacings.
• When you sew the collar to the neckline, make sure the pressed outer edges favor the public side to prevent the inner collar from showing while being worn. Do the same when pressing the lapel facing, since it does not fold back like a traditional lapel.

This review was originally published in Threads #223, Fall 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Kelly Keenan.