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Projects & Patterns

Pattern Review: By Hand London Sandeep Dress

Threads #217, Spring 2022
By Hand London Sandeep Dress variation 1 in linen from MoodFabrics.com

By Hand London: Sandeep Dress

Put on your dancing shoes—this dress is meant for twirling. The formfitting bodice has little ease in the bust, and no ease at the waist and hips. You may wish to go up a size, unless you choose a stretch fabric. The circle skirts and sleeves are the standouts. The dress has a square neckline with a narrow facing; V-shaped darts radiating from the center-front waistline; two back-waist darts; voluminous elbow-length bell sleeves; and a left-side invisible zipper closure. The skirt is in two layers: a circular overskirt, and an underskirt with a fitted section at the top and a circular bottom section. Both circle skirt sections have a high-low hemline. The sewing is not difficult. The design is ideal for African wax prints, linen, poplin, brocade, taffeta, and any fabric with body. Consider stretch wovens because of the tight bodice and underskirt. There is also an option to make only the skirt.

Our seamstress notes:

  • One part of the waistband pattern piece (M), for the skirt option, does not have a cutting line for size US 2/ UK 6.
  • Ensure that the narrow neckline facings are not twisted when assembling them.
  • Mark the fronts of each skirt section to limit confusion during construction.

Add crinolines under the tiered skirts for a fuller, vintage look. Embellish the dress with applied borders at the sleeve and skirt hems. Add a large fabric flower at the side waist.

(Sized UK 2–24 B-cup, 16–38 D-cup [US 00–20 B-cup, 12–34 D-cup] for busts 30–65-3/4 in. and hips 33–67-3/4 in.)


—Tested by Samina Mirza, Katy, Texas

By Hand London Sandeep Dress pattern illustrated

Sewing tip: Because of the unusual dart placement, it’s worth making a muslin of the bodice to check the fi t before cutting your fashion fabric.

This review was originally published in Threads #217, Spring 2022. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.

Illustrations by Cassandra Bernier.


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