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How to Hide the Zipper in a Dart

Two couture solutions offer closure without a seam
Threads #213, Feb./March 2021
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Much of the time, a garment’s zipper opening is straightforward: The zipper is inserted into the center-back seam, or possibly along the side seam, or maybe at a center-front seam. It is a simple, predictable process.

Vogue Couturier Design 1676
A short dart below the waistline holds the zipper and maintains the design. Pattern: Vogue Couturier Design 1676, out of print. Fabric: Wool crepe and twill, the author’s stash.

Every now and then, however, it is a good idea, for reasons of design or engineering, to do something different. If a seam is unnecessary or unwanted, install a zipper in a dart instead.

Couture, at its best, combines form and function. My students have heard me say that a million times. The concept is at the heart of fine sewing. The two techniques I’m going to show you do just that. They do what they have to do from a technical standpoint—offer a…

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