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Make a Shirt Collar with Channels for Collar Stays

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One of the best ways to keep shirt collars looking sharp is with collar stays. These small strips are made of plastic, metal, mother-of-pearl, and even horn.

In order for a shirt collar to accommodate them, it must include channels on the undercollar. This is generally achieved by adding a facing to the undercollar before attaching it to the upper collar.

Shirt collar with collar stay


Few shirt patterns accommodate collar stays

Let’s look at how this is done in two commercial men’s shirt patterns. Of the many vintage men’s shirt patterns I own, I’ve found the collar stay option on only a few. These tend to be patterns with a variety of collar styles: pointed, spread, rounded, button-down, etc. If you can’t find a pattern that includes a collar with channels for collar stays, you can create your own. I explain how below.

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