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The Perfect Blouse: Construct the Collar

Video: Threads magazine

Learn how to construct the collar for a men’s-style shirt using expert pressing and stitching guidance from sewing instructor Sandra Miller in the episode of The Perfect Blouse series.

Sandra works with The Blouse Perfected, a pattern from Cutting Line Designs.

Match collar pieces and apply interfacing

This pattern’s collar is cut on the fold. Transfer markings to the fabric, then unfold the collar. Because a lot of the collar is on the bias, Sandra explains how to align the collar shape before fusing the interfacing to it.

When applying the fusible interfacing with a steam iron, protect your worksurface with parchment paper and protect the iron’s soleplate by using a press cloth.

Start fusing at the center of the collar and move to the outside, picking the iron up and putting it down rather than sliding it along the fabric.

 

Sew the undercollar seam

Align the short ends of the collar and stitch the seam. Trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch wide. Press the collar seam allowances open.

Refold the collar so that the undercollar seam is at the center and the folds are at the two clip marks. Pin the long top edges together. The undercollar’s bias edge may be longer. Simply stretch the shorter edge of the upper collar slightly to accommodate the fullness while pinning. Sew the seam.

 

Turn and press the collar

Trim the seam allowances so that the undercollar seam is shorter than the other seam allowance.

First press the collar on a point press. Sandra then shows how to hold and use a point turner to turn the collar right side out. She also demonstrates how to favor a seam when pressing the turned collar from the right side of the undercollar.

 

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About This Video Series

Sandra Miller, from independent patternmaker Cutting Line Designs, hosts this 15-part series on constructing a man-tailored shirt. Sandra has come up with a method of sewing with precision and helps others to do the same. In this video series exclusive to Threads Insiders, Sandra walks through the steps for creating the shirt while explaining techniques for: shirt collars collar bands plackets four-button front sleeve plackets cuffs, and other details Note: Two new installments are released each week…

More About this Video Series

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  1. user-7922894 | | #1

    So wonderfully helpful. As a home sewer for many years, I had much of what i already do confirmed...but learned so much more. The very clear close up shots and instructions are at a level I wish all instructions had.

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