Overall, this ensemble is moderately challenging to sew, with the exception of the trousers’ welt pockets, which are more difficult. Read the instructions line by line before sewing to familiarize yourself with the details.
Size Range and Fitting:
Sized men’s 34 to 52 for chests 34 inches to 52 inches, waists 28 inches to 48 inches, and hips 35 inches to 53 inches. The shirt has 6 inches of ease across the chest, which is appropriate for this type of garment. When worn unbuttoned, it exudes a relaxed feel.
The shirt could be made from shirting, gingham, linen, poplin, rayon twill, challis, or silky-type fabric. For the trousers, try bottom-weight linen, suiting, twill, or wool blends.
Style and Sewing Details:
This men’s ensemble consists of a shirt with a contrast Italian collar and short or long sleeves, paired with pleated pants with tapered legs, or straight legs with a 1-3/4-inch cuffed hem.
- The Italian collar with curved front edges makes this shirt stand apart from traditional buttoned shirts. The front facings are cut in one with the upper collar, creating an opportunity to showcase a contrast fabric. Other fabric-blocking opportunities are the long-sleeve cuffs or the 2-1/4-inch-wide hem bands on the short sleeves.
- Consider practicing the welt pockets in muslin before sewing them in fashion fabric.
- The zipper application occurs after the pockets and pleats are completed. Our tester suggests sewing it first, when the front pieces are as flat as possible.
This review was originally published in Threads #224, Winter 2023. Have you made this pattern? If so, be sure to share pictures in our Readers Closet gallery.
Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Kelly Keenan.