I’m working on my new coat pattern. It has a fitted, set-in sleeve in two parts (seam down the back, over the elbow, as well as underarm seam). The armhole is fairly deep, which I know from experience limits arm movement. I want to raise bottom of the armhole about an inch, but am not sure how to modify the sleeve cap. Any ideas? I’m thinking the cap needs to have less rise and widen a bit, but not
Also, I’m wondering if I should make the armhole wider to allow for the coat to fit over another garment, since I’ll be making the armhole shorter? How best to do this widening? Would I just extend the horizontal part of the underarm a bit? Or should the curve of the armhole be adjusted? And I think the sleeve would need to be wider at the cap, too.
The coat itself has princess seams from the shoulder. It fits loosely about the waist and hips.