I’m working on my new coat pattern. It has a fitted, set-in sleeve in two parts (seam down the back, over the elbow, as well as underarm seam). The armhole is fairly deep, which I know from experience limits arm movement. I want to raise bottom of the armhole about an inch, but am not sure how to modify the sleeve cap. Any ideas? I’m thinking the cap needs to have less rise and widen a bit, but not
sure.
Also, I’m wondering if I should make the armhole wider to allow for the coat to fit over another garment, since I’ll be making the armhole shorter? How best to do this widening? Would I just extend the horizontal part of the underarm a bit? Or should the curve of the armhole be adjusted? And I think the sleeve would need to be wider at the cap, too.
The coat itself has princess seams from the shoulder. It fits loosely about the waist and hips.
Cat
Replies
Cat,
A coat pattern should already take into consideration that it will be worn over other garments and so the sleeve opening should be larger than a shirt or dress pattern for the same size.
To raise the armhole an inch, add to the side panel (you said it was princess lines, but does it have a side seam or a side panel?) where the dip for the lower edge of the armhole is and raise that up one inch, blending it into the edges of that piece. You don't have to mess with the sleeve 'cap' but you do have to add the inch to the bottom of the sleeve to raise it to meet the new side panel. This may have to be added to both portions of the sleeve pattern . You have to match where the sleeve pieces meet with the side panel or pieces of the coat. Sometimes this is easier to do when made up in muslin, you can more readily see where the pieces attach to each other.
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