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Bias Cut Skirt McCall’s 5524

StarrBlack | Posted in Fitting on

I recently made this very simple skirt pattern for a visiting friend; very confident that she matched the size 12 pieces and pinned the pattern pieces on her to be really sure.  The paper skirt looked great.  The bias cut skirt, on the otherhand was too small and made her look like she had swallowed a basketball or was about 6 months along!  I used the correct cutting & stitching lines and also used what I had learned in a recent fitting class re measuring, etc.  I was shocked about the fit and still am.  Looking back, I needed to make an adjustment for a slightly protruding tummy but I feel that the bias cut fabric might have something to do with the fit as well.  My friend is from Phoenix and I live in Winnipeg, Canada, so I bought enough of the fabric to make us each another skirt (we’d never end up wearing it at the same time) and I’m determined to get this right.  Other than going up one size and making the tummy adjustment, do you have any idea what’s going on with this fabric & pattern?  The fabric is a woven polyester dress weight. I don’t have experience sewing with bias cut fabric and I never dreamed that I would have a problem with this simple pattern!

Replies

  1. decoratrice | | #1

    bias cut skirt

    The bias is a very different animal from the straight grain.  It stretches sideways as well as up and down, so behaves more like a knit than a woven; that's why you find it clinging so closely to the body.  Madeline Vionnet "invented" the bias cut--really she tamed and exploited it--and her creations left no bulge unrevealed.  Your size 12 seems to have shrunk because the weight of the fabric caused it to elongate and narrow all on its own.  Vionnet pinned her fabrics to the wall and let their weight do its thing for a few days before starting to cut.  I don't know if that would be an option for you, but if you really love the pattern and are feeling devil-may-care......

    I'm sure this subject has been the topic of a Threads article, and that should give you some guidance. Good luck!

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