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how much ease should be in collar band.

surya | Posted in Fitting on

Hi Everyone,
I’m starting to get into the habit of checking more and more spots on my patterns for ease that the company has added in, as sometimes it seems to be a lot. I am making a mens shirt and while checking the collar band, I noticed that the distance from center front to center back on the neckband is the same as the neckline on the garment. Usually the neckband is a little longer, isn’t it? I guess it will sew easier this way, but will the finished shirt still be nice?
Thanks,
Surya


Edited 6/7/2007 8:54 pm ET by surya

Replies

  1. Gloriasews | | #1

    The neck band should go completely around the neck, right to the edge of the finished front pieces.  The collar, itself, sits about 1" in from the front edges of the shirt.  You will probably run into problems with the band, as the shirt neck tends to stretch where the curves are, so you may find the the neck band doesn't reach around.  Be sure to stay-stitch the neck once the yoke is on, then pin the band on & see if it fits.  If it doesn't, measure how much more length you need & cut a longer band.  Also make sure that the collar fits, too.  Hopefully, you'll have enough fabric left over to cut new pieces, if necessary.  (I've had this problem before, too, so I made a new pattern by copying the pieces I had to recut, & I now use this pattern all the time with no problem).  Good luck!

  2. Sussana | | #2

    The problems in the neckband that I've seen for myself and others in making a men's dress shirt I've found are related to the seam allowance. 

    Commercial patterns allow a 5/8" seam allowance and if one is not careful to sew both the neckband and shirt together keeping both pieces at that measurement then they don't fit.  Here are three basic ways that may help ease that neckband on. 

    1.   By basting (I know it's tedious but worth the accuracy) you can more carefully line up the pieces respecting the notches and dots etc. 

    2.   Or trim your seam allowance down before you sew, still being accurate in your stitching line. 

    3.   And finally another method that may be useful is clipping your seam allowance on the shirt opening that curve to an almost strait line. 

    When I keep this "seam allowance thing" in mind and I trim and grade my seam allowances I have not since had a problem getting a crisp professional collar and neckband. 

    I hope this helps

    Sussana 

     

    1. Brine | | #3

      I, like Sussana, clip the neckline so it can be straightened. However, you must remember to stay stitch first; then you can safely clip the allowance up to the stay stitching.

  3. User avater
    CostumerVal | | #4

    I'm in agreement with the other two. On a mans shirt, the collar is the critical fit item. Your mans neck measurement plus 1/2". Measure from the button placement to 1/8" inside the buttonhole placement mark. (Center front to Center front) The collar seam is the same measurement as the shirt seam. No ease there, but make sure you measure the seam line, not the cut line. I also stay stitch first before attaching the collar, and clip the seam allowance so I can straighten it. Pin C.F. and C.B. pull up the stay stitches at the shoulder area (where the cut is on the bias)to ease a perfect fit.

    1. surya | | #5

      Thanks to everyone for the good advice. We really need a good mainstream book for fitting men. I just wrote to Palmer/Pletsch encouraging them to put something out.
      Sun

      1. Maggy | | #6

        Surya, there is an absolutely fantastic book published by the Taunton Press called 'Shirtmaking' by David Coffin. The author gives extremely detailed instructions, and even includes full-scale patterns for collars, collar stands, cuffs, and plackets--all of which can be adapted to fit any pattern that you are currently using. The book also has a nice section for ladies shirts and blouses. You may want to check the 'Books' section on the Threads website.

        Maggy

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