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Sewing Tip: How and Why to Sew Directionally

Threads #178, April/May 2015 Issue
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The “Essential Techniques” department in Threads #178 covers just about everything you need to know for staystitching successfully. In this sewing tip excerpted from “Staystitching,” author Daryl Lancaster shows you how to sew two garment sections together so the seams match on both sides of the garment.


When the seamline is not parallel to the warp or weft, it is important to stitch with the direction of the grain. In addition, stitching in the same direction on both garment sides is critical. On an A-line skirt, for example, stitching the front and backs together from the hem to the waist on one side seam and from the waist to the hem on the other side seam renders one side longer than the other.

staystitching 1

When sewing garment pieces together, stitch both sides in the same direction.

staystitching 2

Don’t miss other expert techniques and tricks by checking out all of our sewing tips.

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  1. User avater Katie_Strano June 28th

    BGibbs - The direction in which pant leg seams should be sewn may vary depending on the cut of the pants, and the fabric being used. It is best to sew with the grain of the fabric. In the case of a tapered leg, this could mean that you sew waist to hem/crotch to hem. For a pant with a leg that flares out, it may be best to sew from hem to waist/hem to crotch. Our technical editor, Carol Fresia, recommends that you study the grain of your fabric to help determine which stitching direction is best for your project. Then be sure to stay consistent with your chosen direction.

  2. BGibbs June 27th

    What about pants? Does directional stitching indicate that pant legs should be stitched from bottom to waist (outseams) and bottom to crotch (inseams)?

  3. User avater ErinGoodwin September 14th

    Hello, does this apply to oven gloves? I intend to make some this weekend because I constantly burn myself on the hot oven.

  4. EdwardJenkins July 31st

    Thumbs up for the stuff.... Great ..

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