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The Loden Coat Sleeve, Part 1

Jul 21, 2015
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The shoulder detail on this loden coat is referred to as a flange. This flange, however, is constructed differently from others I’ve encountered over the years. This is an unlined coat, which presents a challenge to constructing a flange. The solution is elegant and ingenious. Since this is an unlined coat, it needs a deep front facing to finish the inside and to provide space for an interior pocket. The facing extends from the front opening to the front armhole. There’s a half-lining across the back to which the sleeve lining is attached. I’ll call this entire piece–the front facing plus half-lining–the interior facing. The half lining is backed with the wool fabric, and the edges of the facing and half-lining unit are bias-bound. From the outside of the armscye, you can see straight through to the dress form: The sleeve isn’t sewn to the body under the arm.  The sleeve is sewn to the facing, so, in a way, it floats inside the armhole of the outer coat. There are four rows of topstitching along the shoulder area of the armhole.  One row of topstitching joins the sleeve and interior facing to the shell of the coat; I’ve basted that…

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  1. User avater EmilyBint August 24th

    This doesn't looks so hard to make, but the end result is a statement piece. Worth investing your time.

  2. User avater KennethDKing August 3rd

    It is a variation of the half lining. The difference here, is that the sleeve hangs from this structure inside, instead of being set into the bodice. So, the fabric needs to be a little more robust than the traditional half lining.

  3. User avater awami August 3rd

    Would this be referred to as a half lining?

  4. User avater KennethDKing July 23rd

    There's nothing to be reluctant about being a sewing voyeur--it's a wholesome activity!

  5. LuvThreadsMagazine July 21st


    Glued to my screen - I'm now a reluctantly admitted "sewing voyeur" (and you're to blame, Senor King!).

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