Working with Embellished Fabrics, Part I

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Susan Khalje, contributor

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Use forked pins--they do a superb job of keeping the two layers (four layers, really, counting the organza) from shifting as you stitch with a zipper foot. The needle goes along the stitching line, right alongside the beads that are still in the body of the fabric.

I often sew these sorts of seams twice (stitching very slowly), just to make sure the stitching is good and tight. The loft of the fabric (because of all the embellishments) can make a tight seam a little challenging. Stitch very slowly--my theory is that by stitching slowly, the needle can sort of slide down alongside any beads that it encounters. If you stitch quickly, the needle can hit any errant beads directly--you'll break beads, you'll break needles, you'll put holes in the underlying fabric...so go slowly.

A few steps to finish up the side seams: Press them thoroughly, and catch-stitch the seam allowances to the silk organza underlining. This will keep them nice and flat.

Go back to secure the beads right along the seamlines, adding a few here and there to fill in any missing sections. You can see where a few beads need to be filled in. 

Before.

After.

Now that it's sewn together, I'm really glad I went to the trouble of basting the embellished fabric so thoroughly to the silk organza--fabrics that are heavily ornamented with glass beads (like this one) get very heavy, and they need support.

6. Sew the silk charmeuse lining together; there's nothing tricky about that. Sew the darts and keep the left side seam open to accommodate the zipper.

Look for my next post, "Working with Heavily Embellished Fabrics, Part 2," to see how to finish the skirt.

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Comments (13)

robinmckinney writes: Could I eliminate the center back seam on a wedding dress that has a train? I am dealing with an alencon lace fabric. I'de like to get rid of the center back seam to eliminate the need for a center back seam I would like to do that.
Posted: 2:09 am on July 3rd

Ocrafty1 writes: Thanks, Susan. I used to watch your show on PBS and really miss it. It got me interested in sewing with better techniques. Pressing, Pressing, Pressing correctly and taking your t-i-m-e when you sew. You always give such wonderful instructions. If it hadn't been for you, I'd never have tackeled making wedding gowns. Am looking forward to reading Part 2!

Posted: 9:13 pm on July 21st

KTopp writes: I agree with Susan's method of removing the beads. I am currently finishing up a beaded silk chiffon gown that was loaded with beads and sequins. Although rather labor intense, I found I had more control and a better look when removing the beads by hand. I enjoyed seeing how Susan stabilizes a heavily beaded garment with the organza and basting stitches. I am looking forward to Part II.
Posted: 10:04 pm on March 31st

psfws1963 writes: I think this will be very interesting fabric to work with.
Posted: 8:03 pm on February 14th

SusanKhalje writes: I'm going to have to disagree with pheather - I've never liked the idea of smashing the beads (though I know people do that) - I'm uncomfortable with the idea of glass shards, no matter how tiny, inside a garment or in the workroom. And there are chain stitches and there are chain stitches - some pull apart right away, but often they're more stable than you'd think - tugging at the remaining beads will be your clue. I prefer a tiny dab of glue on the underside of the fabric, or an extra stitch or two to hold things in place.
Susan
Posted: 12:10 am on February 14th

pheather writes: NO, NO, NO, Do NOT cut the threads that hold beads and such to clear them from your seam allowances and darts!! They are usually sewn in with a chainstitch (see the Threads article about that a few years ago). So, if you cut the chainstitch you will cause a "chain reaction" and soon beads will begin coming off every time you move the garment. The best way to get beads out of the seam allowance is to crush them with pliers. Wear goggles to protect your eyes from flying shards, perform this over a wastebasket, and give your hands a break every 10 minutes or so (so you don't get a cramp). Since beads are usually glass, they will eventually begin cutting the thread and begin unravelling all by themselves, so be prepared to nip that problem in the bud by saving fallen beads and sewing them back on ASAP, being sure to knot-off the chain of thread at both ends.
Posted: 6:54 pm on February 12th

LeslieD writes: I love Susan's work and instruction. I am looking forward to the next installment. She makes it seem so easy.
Posted: 11:17 am on February 10th

jojoma writes: Beautiful stuff! Putzy, but worth the work.
My mother, who was a seamstress, always said " the more detailed the fabric, the simpler the pattern. And the simpler the fabric, you can do a more complicated pattern."
This is a perfect example of that philosophy.
Posted: 10:08 pm on February 9th

knittuck writes: Greetings Susan,
This is very well explained, Thank you. I'll be sure to look for the Part 2.
I have a couple of heavily embellished saris, in my fabric collection. This article has me thinking about how to use them.
MT




Posted: 9:58 pm on February 9th

Susan1151 writes: Susan is an excellent instructor - very knowledgable, thorough and patient! I enjoyed one of her workshops years ago in Baltimore!
Posted: 12:02 pm on February 9th

denise50 writes: Excellent information. I've always wanted to work on embellished fabrics and now I feel I'm ready pending part two, of course. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Posted: 11:28 am on February 9th

triangles writes: Oops, should have double checked that I spelled Khalje correctly!
Posted: 9:37 pm on February 8th

triangles writes: As usual, Susan Kahlje taught a rather complex subject matter in an easily understood way. I look forward to Part II. We are very lucky to have you! Linda S from MD
Posted: 9:35 pm on February 8th

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