Pattern Layouts

To Judge a Pattern, Start with Its Cover

Choose the Correct Pattern Size

Threads Magazine, editor

7 users recommend

Learn how to choose the correct pattern size for a well-fitting garment.

Personal measurement chart

Learn how to choose the correct pattern size for a well-fitting garment.

Add Comment
Print

by Susan Andriks
from Threads #86, pp. 14, 16

The first step to making a garment that fits well is to choose the correct pattern size. This may seem obvious, but it's surprising how many sewers start with the wrong size, then end up making a lot of adjustments to get a good fit.

Measurements are key
When choosing a pattern size, you need to know some basic body measurements (see Personal measurement chart). I'll tell you how to use these measurements in a moment, but first let me explain why you can't simply rely on your ready-to-wear size when it comes to choosing patterns.

	Compare your measurements to those on the back of the pattern envelope. Each pattern company bases sizing on a standard set of body measurements.

As I'm sure you're aware, sizing in the ready-to-wear industry is not consistent and most of us fit into a wide range of sizes, depending on the designer or manufacturer. Designers frequently use what's called vanity sizing, which adds inches to each size. What might have been a size 16 a few years ago, for example, is labeled a size 10 or 12 today.

Among the major pattern companies (see Pattern companies online), however, sizing is based on a standard set of body measurements, which are provided on each pattern envelope and at the back of the pattern catalogs. Once you've determined your pattern size by comparing your measurements with these standards, you can purchase that size for any of the company's patterns. But because very few figures will match a pattern company's standard measurements exactly, below are some guidelines for choosing a pattern size.

Comparing measurements
First if you're unsure of which size category your body type fits into, such as misses', women's, or petite, check your height and back-waist length measurements (see the Personal measurement chart below), and compare them to the measurement charts provided on the back of each pattern catalog. Then take your full-bust, high-bust, waist, and hip measurements, and compare them with the standard measurements within that figure category.
 
When you choose a blouse, dress, or jacket pattern, compare your high-bust measurement with the standard bust measurement on the chart to get the best fit in the shoulder area. It's important to fit the shoulder area first, because this area is harder to alter on a pattern than the bust cup, waist, and hip.

When choosing pants and skirt patterns, compare the waist and hip measurements: Your choice will be determined by your hip measurement. If the skirt is full, use your waist measurement to select a pattern size.

If your measurements fall between two sizes, consider your bone structure. If you're small-boned, buy the smaller size; conversely, if you're large-boned, buy the larger.

Personal measurement chart
Take and record your basic body measurements wearing well-fitting undergarments. Tie 1/4-in. elastic around your waist to find exact placement. Hold the tape measure snugly, but not tightly. 1. Height: Without shoes, standing against a wall 2. Back-waist length: From prominent bone at base of neck to natural waistline 3. High bust: High up under arms across chest and back 4. Full bust: Straight across back and around fullest part of bust 5. Waist: Around body at natural waistline 6. Hips: Around body at fullest part of hips

To fit comfortably, a garment must have ease built into it: Wearing ease is the minimum amount of inches added to a pattern so that you can move in the garment, and design ease is the amount the designer added or subtracted to create a particular silhouette. Ease allowances, found at the back of the pattern catalogs, may vary slightly from company to company and in some cases the ease allowed may affect the size pattern you choose. For example, if a style is loose-fitting with a large amount of ease and you prefer a closer fit, you might decide to choose a smaller size.

So get out a tape measure to find your correct size. In most cases, your pattern size will probably be larger than your ready-to-wear size, but when you start with the right number, fitting is so much easier.

Susan Andriks sews and teaches in Canterbury, New Hampshire.

Photos: Sloan Howard; drawings: Karen Meyer

posted in: fitting

Add Comment Print

Comments (3)

PresleyP writes: I have a question too...I got a Simplicity pattern for pants that comes with Slim, Average, and Curvy fits for each size. My measurements were between a 14 and 16, so I went with the 16. Then, to choose the right fit, I measured my crotch length and back crotch length. They were both way too big for my size, even for a Curvy fit, but I just made a 16 Curvy. The pants are too big all over. I'm suspicious of the mismatched crotch length measurement. I measured the total length to and from my natural waist, and the back length from where the seams meet in a pair of pants to my natural waist, all while standing. Does any of that sound wrong? And is it better to choose the smaller size when you're between two pants sizes? Posted: 7:12 pm on July 3rd

Peady writes: Having worked in a fabric store, your complaint is familiar. It sounds about right that your measurements really are closer to size 6, when you purchase a 2.

One part of a pattern envelope that's frequently overlooked is the part that charts the actual garment measurements. The chart usually is on the back of the envelope, beneath the yardage requirements. If it's not there, it should be on the first page of your instruction sheet. I've faced that sizing frustration many times -- I haven't been able to figure out why commercial manufacturers and pattern companies can't coordinate their standards.

When you're selecting a pattern size, choose first (but don't buy it yet!!) on the basis of your body measurements. If they fall in different sizes, keep in mind that the bust measurement is the hardest to alter, so choose what's closest to your measurement. Loose-fit, semi-fitted, etc. affects the actual garment size. Once you've chosen a pattern size, look at the actual garment measurements and change your size accordingly. Check this Threads article again for ease standards -- the actual pattern size you need may be closer to the measurements of a purchased garment.

Each pattern company uses slightly different slopers (original basic patterns from which they create the new designs). For example, I've found Butterick has a relatively high bust point -- they gear their patterns for younger, slenderer (if that's a word!) bodies. That's good news -- lets you know how you need to adjust the pattern if you absolutely fall in love with one of their designs.

I hope this helps! It's made a big difference for me. Posted: 11:16 am on June 25th

germanmom writes: A question if I may. The sizing of patterns is really getting to me! According to my measurements I would wear a size 12. I am 5'2", apparently that's called petite. Now, I generally wear a size 2, so it's odd that the pattern would put me in a 12. However, when I cut it out and baste the body parts together it's HUGE! The amount I wind up having to adjust would take it down to a size 6. Could someone help me understand how all this works? I have been sewing for many years and it seems to be worse now than when I was a teenager (I'm in my 50's). Do each of the pattern makers do their sizes differently? Hoping to hear from you!!!
Thank-you. Posted: 3:49 pm on June 5th

You must be logged in to post comments. Click here to login.