The sleeve cap line
Before you begin, measure the width of the sleeve on the hemline.

1. Slash the sleeve from the hemline to pivot positions on the cap seamline above the notches as shown. On a two-piece sleeve, adjust the upper sleeve only (see the instructions and drawing below).

2. Spread (or overlap) the sections equally at the hemline until the cap line is equal to your measured garment cap line.


3. Redraw the underarm seamlines, tapering equally, to return the hemline to its original width. Draw a straight hemline across the spread (or overlapped) sections.


For a two-piece sleeve, slash each outer section on the cap line, leaving a hinge at the outside edge, and pivot the lower portion to abut the inner section at the bottom edge. Redraw the hemline.


To find the cap line on a two-piece sleeve: Align the under sleeve with the upper along one seamline at the cap edge. Draw the cap line perpendicular to the upper sleeve lengthwise grainline and touching the lowest point of the underarm curve on the under sleeve.


Peggy Sagers writes and designs patterns in Dallas. You can reach her at www.silhouettepatterns.com.

Illustrations by Linda Boston