The Kilim Carpet Coat: Installing Shoulder Pads and Facings
After the heavy lifting involved with installing the sleeves, the remainder of this coat has felt like a breeze!
Next step was installing the shoulder pads. Since this isn’t a classic tailored sleeve, I chose a shoulder pad that has a curved edge to pad out the cap, rather than the classic set-in tailored shoulder pad.
After determining the proper placement by trying on the coat, I needed to secure the pad in the sleeve.
First, I whipstitched the edge to the inside of the cap.
Next, I catchstitched the pad’s outer edges to the inside of the coat to prevent the pad from curling over time.
Next came installing the front facings. Because of the thickness of the fabric, I used the rug selvages as the font edges, which left the top (neckline) seam from the end of the collar to the front edge to finish.
I pressed under the notched seam allowance using lots of heat, steam, water, and the mallet to get it as flat as possible.
Then, with needle and thread, I stitched everything down securely.
This is a close-up of that seam.
This is what the work looks like from the front.
I’d already prepared the facings and back lining by sewing the side seams together and finishing the inner edge with a Hong Kong binding.
The next step was to mark the stitching line, and to cut away the seam allowance with the pinking blade.
I then applied the underlap side of the facing to the inside of the coat, fabric wrong sides together. After pinning, I hand-basted everything to secure the placement.
Here’s a detail at the neck seam.
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