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The Loden Coat Sleeve, Part 1

The shoulder detail on this loden coat is referred to as a flange.

loden coat sleeve 1

This flange, however, is constructed differently from others I’ve encountered over the years.

This is an unlined coat, which presents a challenge to constructing a flange.

loden coat sleeve 2

The solution is elegant and ingenious.

loden coat sleeve 3

Since this is an unlined coat, it needs a deep front facing to finish the inside and to provide space for an interior pocket. The facing extends from the front opening to the front armhole.

There’s a half-lining across the back to which the sleeve lining is attached.

loden coat sleeve 3

I’ll call this entire piece–the front facing plus half-lining–the interior facing.

loden coat sleeve 5

The half lining is backed with the wool fabric, and the edges of the facing and half-lining unit are bias-bound.

From the outside of the armscye, you can see straight through to the dress form: The sleeve isn’t sewn to the body under the arm.

loden coat sleeve 6

The sleeve is sewn to the facing, so, in a way, it floats inside the armhole of the outer coat.

There are four rows of topstitching along the shoulder area of the armhole.

loden coat sleeve 7

One row of topstitching joins the sleeve and interior facing to the shell of the coat; I’ve basted that row in red thread for visibility.

loden coat 8

This is a view from inside the coat. The same row of stitching shown above is picked out in red thread tracing, as well.

In the first part of this two-part tutorial, we will cover the patternmaking for this sleeve. The second part will show the steps of construction.

We begin with a jacket pattern. I’m using a two-part body, and a two-part sleeve.

loden coat sleeve 9

I’ve taped the side seams of the body together under the armhole for drafting the pieces.

loden coat sleeve 10

The pink line shows…

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  1. User avater
    LuvThreadsMagazine | | #1

    Glued to my screen - I'm now a reluctantly admitted "sewing voyeur" (and you're to blame, Senor King!).

  2. User avater
    kennethdking | | #2

    There's nothing to be reluctant about being a sewing voyeur--it's a wholesome activity!

  3. User avater
    awami | | #3

    Would this be referred to as a half lining?

  4. User avater
    kennethdking | | #4

    It is a variation of the half lining. The difference here, is that the sleeve hangs from this structure inside, instead of being set into the bodice. So, the fabric needs to be a little more robust than the traditional half lining.

  5. User avater
    EmilyBint | | #5

    This doesn't looks so hard to make, but the end result is a statement piece. Worth investing your time.

  6. Betty_Jo_Tatum | | #6

    This is stunning. I personally prefer a full lining, especially with wools, and would probably go that route, but I love the overall piece. It's inspiring and makes me think I may have to pull out some of my wool stash from under my bed and make a new jacket.

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