The shoulder detail on this loden coat is referred to as a flange.
This flange, however, is constructed differently from others I’ve encountered over the years.
This is an unlined coat, which presents a challenge to constructing a flange.
The solution is elegant and ingenious.
Since this is an unlined coat, it needs a deep front facing to finish the inside and to provide space for an interior pocket. The facing extends from the front opening to the front armhole.
There’s a half-lining across the back to which the sleeve lining is attached.
I’ll call this entire piece–the front facing plus half-lining–the interior facing.
The half lining is backed with the wool fabric, and the edges of the facing and half-lining unit are bias-bound.
From the outside of the armscye, you can see straight through to the dress form: The sleeve isn’t sewn to the…
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