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The Loden Coat Sleeve, Part 1

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The shoulder detail on this loden coat is referred to as a flange.

loden coat sleeve 1

This flange, however, is constructed differently from others I’ve encountered over the years.

This is an unlined coat, which presents a challenge to constructing a flange.

loden coat sleeve 2

The solution is elegant and ingenious.

loden coat sleeve 3

Since this is an unlined coat, it needs a deep front facing to finish the inside and to provide space for an interior pocket. The facing extends from the front opening to the front armhole.

There’s a half-lining across the back to which the sleeve lining is attached.

loden coat sleeve 3

I’ll call this entire piece–the front facing plus half-lining–the interior facing.

loden coat sleeve 5

The half lining is backed with the wool fabric, and the edges of the facing and half-lining unit are bias-bound.

From the outside of the armscye, you can see straight through to the dress form: The sleeve isn’t sewn to the…

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  1. User avater
    LuvThreadsMagazine | | #1

    Glued to my screen - I'm now a reluctantly admitted "sewing voyeur" (and you're to blame, Senor King!).

  2. User avater
    KennethDKing | | #2

    There's nothing to be reluctant about being a sewing voyeur--it's a wholesome activity!

  3. User avater
    awami | | #3

    Would this be referred to as a half lining?

  4. User avater
    KennethDKing | | #4

    It is a variation of the half lining. The difference here, is that the sleeve hangs from this structure inside, instead of being set into the bodice. So, the fabric needs to be a little more robust than the traditional half lining.

  5. User avater
    EmilyBint | | #5

    This doesn't looks so hard to make, but the end result is a statement piece. Worth investing your time.

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