How to Sew a Vintage Stand-Away Collar
Create a Stand-away Collar
Recently in my travels, I came across this lovely vintage coat. Because it didn’t have a store or manufacturer’s label, I think it was made by a talented seamstress.
It is beautifully sewn and has a lot of lovely collar detail.
This stand-away collar (a rolled collar that doesn’t hug the neck) is a charming design, which makes the neck look long and elegant. It’s also easy to re-create. The coat has a jewel neckline with a separate rolled collar that’s been hand-sewn to the bodice.
The collar stands up nicely at the shoulders. There’s a trick to achieving this, which I’ll cover when we draft the collar.
At first glance, the collar looks complicated, but it is easy to construct. The patternwork is important, so we’ll cover that next.
The stylish stand-away collar is not incorporated in the neckline seam but is attached to the coat’s neckline after construction.
Continue to next page to learn how to construct a stand-away collar.
It all starts with the pattern. The lines in the example represent the sewing lines. Seam allowances are added after the drafting is complete.
When creating a broad neckline, as in this instance, there is a proper proportion for how much to adjust at the shoulder and center back.
The rule: Lower the center back neckline half the amount that you widen, or open, the neckline along the shoulder seam. (In this case, we opened the neckline along the shoulder seam 2 inches, so we lowered the center back 1 inch.)
The blue line in the photo represents the seamline where the collar attaches to the bodice.
This rule also holds when you’re making a collarless garment.
Widen the neckline at the shoulder seam…