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How to Sew a Vintage Stand-Away Collar

Apr 20, 2016
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Note how the collar stands up nicely at the shoulders. There's a trick to achieving this, which I'll cover when we draft the collar.

Create a Stand-away Collar Recently in my travels, I came across this lovely vintage coat. Because it didn’t have a store or manufacturer’s label, I think it was made by a talented seamstress. It is beautifully sewn and has a lot of lovely collar detail. This stand-away collar (a rolled collar that doesn’t hug the neck) is a charming design, which makes the neck look long and elegant. It’s also easy to re-create. The coat has a jewel neckline with a separate rolled collar that’s been hand-sewn to the bodice.  The collar stands up nicely at the shoulders. There’s a trick to achieving this, which I’ll cover when we draft the collar. At first glance, the collar looks complicated, but it is easy to construct. The patternwork is important, so we’ll cover that next. The stylish stand-away collar is not incorporated in the neckline seam but is attached to the coat’s neckline after construction. Continue to next page to learn how to construct a stand-away collar. The pattern: It all starts with the pattern. The lines in the example represent the sewing lines. Seam allowances are added after the drafting is complete. When creating a broad neckline, as in this instance,…

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  1. nonjoiner July 11th

    I'm short and small-boned--I don't see why I can't narrow the collar and still have it stand away from my neck--what do you think? Thanks for all the wonderful info you give so generously--M

  2. Mihaela_Cristina March 21st

    Thank you so much Kenneth for your detailed explanation: it gives me the courage to try this beautiful haute couture technique.

  3. User avater KennethDKing May 25th

    Having the collar stand away from the neck creates the illusion of a longer neck, which is really elegant.

  4. AndreaLa May 24th

    Perfect for my next fall coat. I love the way the collar stands away from the chin and face but with lots of flair.

  5. joylovestosew May 10th

    This is just gorgeous. I have to try this at some point. I don't feel proficient enough a sewer to try just yet, but, I will give it a whirl at some point. Thanks for sharing!

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