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Collar Stand Construction Techniques for Jackets
As you may already know, I have an obsession with making jackets. When searching for jacket patterns, one of the features I look for is a collar with a separate sewn-in stand. You can find this detail in better ready-to-wear jackets.
This type of collar offers style and comfort, two characteristics we seek in jackets whether they are sewn by you or are store-bought. When the collar is down, it sits in place and rolls nicely. When the collar is up, the stand section supports the collar, so it doesn’t sag. Extra edgestitching or topstitching adds style and more stability.
Choose or create a pattern with a separate collar stand
The pattern pieces and technique samples shown are from BurdaStyle.com Bouclé Biker Jacket 107, 03/2019. Additional samples are from the many jackets in my wardrobe, made with various patterns over the years.
Some patterns supply one pattern piece for the upper collar and undercollar, both cut on the fold. I prefer those with a separate pattern for the upper collar (cut one on the fold), and the undercollar (cut two halves on the bias). If your pattern has only one piece, you can trace another for the undercollar. Change the undercollar’s grainline to bias, then add a 5/8-inch-wide seam allowance to the center-back foldline, and mark the pattern to cut two. Taking these extra steps will pay off, as the collar will feel more comfortable around your neck.
The two-piece undercollar and collar stand add support to the collar of a denim jacket.
The upper collar, cut on the fold, and the separate stand are visible on the inside of the denim jacket.
Work with the patterns and cut the pieces
1. Lay out and cut the needed pattern pieces in the appropriate grain directions: upper collar, undercollar, upper…
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To increase the stiffness of the stand, I often add the multiple rows of stitching that you referenced in the collar without a stand. It adds stiffness, as well as adding a couture touch to the collar.