Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon
How-to

Draft an All-in-one Stand-up Collar

This variety of collar is cut as an extension of the garment front neckline.

Threads #198, Aug./Sept. 2018

Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King  demonstrates how to draft a pattern for an all-in-one collar, also known as a cut-as-one collar.

This variety of collar is cut as an extension of the garment front neckline. It has a center-back seam and is then sewn to the back neckline. Unlike a shawl collar, which folds down at the back neck, the one shown stands up, creating a funnel-like silhouette.

Two drafting techniques

A simple pattern-drafting process enables you to add an all-in-one collar to any bodice with a basic jewel neckline. If you have a pattern with a shawl collar, Kenneth explains how to revise it to a stand-up, or standing, collar. In both cases, you can shape the jacket front opening as desired, from a straight to dramatic lapel. He then demonstrates the best way to draft a facing for the jacket front and collar.

Add a half-lining

The all-in-one collar pattern can be used for Kenneth’s ingenious half-lining technique, explained step-by-step in “The Smart Half Lining,” Threads #198, Aug./Sept. 2018. This treatment is ideal for jackets made of double-faced fabrics. The jacket back and sleeves are fully lined, but the front is only partiallylined, so the lapels can be turned back to reveal the fabric’s reverse side.

For more tips on working with two-sided fabrics, Insider members can read “How to Sew Double-Faced Fabric.” To learn an alternative half-lining method, check out “How to Make a Half Bias Jacket Lining.”

 

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 37% and get a free gift

Subscribe

Discuss

  1. User avater LuvThreadsMagazine September 14th

    Long live The King!

  2. Davettr September 11th

    Nice!

  3. flatCAD September 4th

    The facing folds out (over the outer layer- shell) to create the lapel therefore it needs to be wider, not narrower. There is no need to trim off at the back because the collar stands and not fold over;. however trimming off just a little might help the style edge turn slightly towards the neck (body) because the shorter center back of the facing pulls the longer shell inward.

  4. user-6946458 July 8th

    Excellent tips, especially the 1/4 inch bottom facing ease allowance. Thanks

  5. Delica July 1st

    Love this idea. Mr. King gives such clear information.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

More From Threads

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

  • Sign up for the Threads eletter

    Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

    Sign Up
  • SewStylish

    SewStylish

    Take a look inside the pages of SewStylish Spring 2017.

  • CraftStylish

    CraftStylish

    Expert craft tutorials, news, and tips for sewing, knitting, crochet, quilting, paper crafts, embroidery, jewelry making, and more!