Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

The Davidow Edge

Learn a designer's patented facing alternative.

Threads #201, Feb./Mar. 2019
Article Image
Details Book The Sue Ann Genet Costume Collection
On November 7, 1942, Melville Davidow applied for U. S. Patent 2,318,295 for an innovative jacket construction method. With the goal of saving as much material as possible, Davidow invented a way to eliminate the facings from a tailored-style ladies’ jacket. His finishing process kept the hand of the fashion fabric and maintained the structural integrity of the collar and lapel without the facing. A full description, with drawings, is shown online under the patent number granted on May 4, 1943. Davidow turned the seam allowance normally used to attach the facings to the wrong side, then machine-sewed three parallel rows of stitching to stay, support, and secure the edge. His method relied on meticulous pressing, stitching, and trimming. It works best in a fabric with a textured, open weave—not a hard-finished, tightly woven suiting material. The fabric’s weight should be able to support a collar and lapel without requiring interfacing or a sewn-on or cut-on facing. For years, the Davidow method was used to finish jackets and is seen in many garment collections of the time. The steps for emulating this method are shown on the next page. Find additional information on this technique in David Page Coffin’s “One-Layer…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 37% and get a free gift


Log in or become a member to post a comment.

More From Threads

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All


  • Sign up for the Threads eletter

    Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

    Sign Up
  • SewStylish


    Take a look inside the pages of SewStylish Spring 2017.

  • CraftStylish


    Expert craft tutorials, news, and tips for sewing, knitting, crochet, quilting, paper crafts, embroidery, jewelry making, and more!