If you’re investing time in sewing clothes to fit your figure, it’s worthwhile to employ smart, durable construction techniques. In Threads #208 (June/July 2020), I described the basic method for adjusting a standard-size pattern for a fuller figure. Once you’ve gotten your pattern to fit correctly, you can build in some give where you need it and create stronger seams where there may be strain during wear. You don’t have to default to knit fabrics to get the comfort you desire—although knits are an important part of most contemporary wardrobes.

The methods I show work for any size garment or figure but are especially helpful in clothing for plus-size women. As the body bends, moves, or sits, fullness can shift. This causes waistbands to dig in or roll and puts stress on seams. You may doubt the fit of your clothes in action, even if they…