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Threads, Issue #209 June/July 2020

How to Alter Sewing Patterns for Better Fit

Over several decades of making custom clothing, I’ve learned a lot about garment fitting. Many of my favorite techniques were taught by Roberta Carr and published in her book, Couture:…


  • The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris

    The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris is a must-visit for fashionistas when vacationing in France. The museum is housed in the private mansion at 5 avenue Marceau where Yves Saint…

  • Sew Better Plus-Size Garments

    If you’re investing time in sewing clothes to fit your figure, it’s worthwhile to employ smart, durable construction techniques. In Threads #208 (June/July 2020), I described the basic method for…

  • Tips for Sewing Linen Knits

    Linen is a natural fiber spun from the cellulose inside the stalk of a flax plant. Woven linen fabrics are a favorite of many sewers, but that is not the…


  • Readers Tips: French Seams in Fussy Fabric

    I recently had some trouble achieving a neat finish when sewing a French seam on a synthetic crepe. After doing the first stitching pass with wrong sides together, I knew…

  • Profiles in Sewing: Denise Dickens

    Her design story began with graphic design, which, when mixed with an early love of sewing, became something more. After years of struggling to find clothes, especially outerwear, that fit…

  • 8 Great Sewing Notions

    Check out some tools and supplies that will make your sewing easier and better. Find new sewing notions, here.

  • How to Use a Sewing Stiletto

    The sewing stiletto is the modern descendant of the awl tool, used in making the earliest examples of clothing.


  • Q & A: Locating the Waistline

    Q: I’m planning to make some fitting adjustments to a pattern, but the waistline is not marked on it. How do I determine where the waistline is on the pattern?…

  • difference between nap and pile in fabric

    Q&A: Napped Fabrics vs. Pile Fabrics

    Ever see the terms nap and pile on fabric descriptions? Still don't know what that means? Learn the difference between nap vs. pile fabric.


  • How to Sew Shisha Embroidery

    Shisha embroidery is the technique of stitching a border around small pieces of metal or glass to attach them to fabric. It originated in Southeast Asia, and examples of shisha…

    Fabric Lab

  • How to Sew with Terrycloth

    Typically the go-to fabric for towels and bathrobes, terrycloth has desirable characteristics for a variety of garments. People of all ages find terrycloth comfy and fun to wear, thanks to…


  • Matriarchs and Soldiers

    When I was a child, I loved to eavesdrop while my aunt and grandmother sewed together and told family stories. I was inspired by the strong women in my family…

    How Did They Sew That

  • How to Sew Wool Double-Knit Appliqué

    Italian fashion of the 20th century has a reputation for exquisite fabrications, upbeat and contemporary style, and high-quality construction that ensures longevity. This Italian dress from 1969 was made when…

    Pattern Hack

  • Pattern Review: Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit

    Deer and Doe: Sirocco Jumpsuit This short-sleeve jumpsuit and romper will hug and highlight your curves. It has a surplice bodice, a 1-inch-wide neckline band, an inset waistband, and diagonal…

    Essential Techniques

  • The Secret to Couture Gathering

    Whether in ruffles, at skirt waistlines, or in the caps of puffy sleeves, gathers are used in subtle or dramatic ways to add volume, shape, and interest. There’s nothing lovelier…

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