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Threads, Issue #209 June/July 2020

How to Install Zippers in Sheer Garments

Zippers and garments made of sheer fabrics seem at odds with each other. We need to get in and out of our clothing, yet we don’t want to break up…

    Articles

  • Tips for Sewing Linen Knits

    Linen is a natural fiber spun from the cellulose inside the stalk of a flax plant. Woven linen fabrics are a favorite of many sewers, but that is not the…

  • How to Alter Sewing Patterns for Better Fit

    Over several decades of making custom clothing, I’ve learned a lot about garment fitting. Many of my favorite techniques were taught by Roberta Carr and published in her book, Couture:…

  • The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris

    The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris is a must-visit for fashionistas when vacationing in France. The museum is housed in the private mansion at 5 avenue Marceau where Yves Saint…

  • Sew Better Plus-Size Garments

    If you’re investing time in sewing clothes to fit your figure, it’s worthwhile to employ smart, durable construction techniques. In Threads #208 (June/July 2020), I described the basic method for…

    Departments

  • Readers Tips: French Seams in Fussy Fabric

    I recently had some trouble achieving a neat finish when sewing a French seam on a synthetic crepe. After doing the first stitching pass with wrong sides together, I knew…

  • 8 New Sewing Notions for Summer 2020

    Keep tools at hand Scissors, seam rippers, and other implements never seem to be in the right place when you need them. Use the Sewing Tool Belt from HipNotions to…

  • Profiles in Sewing: Denise Dickens

    Her design story began with graphic design, which, when mixed with an early love of sewing, became something more. After years of struggling to find clothes, especially outerwear, that fit…

  • How to Use a Sewing Stiletto

    The sewing stiletto is the modern descendant of the awl, used in making the earliest examples of clothing. Its sharp point could create holes for lacing together animal skins, before…

    Q&A

  • Q&A: Napped Fabrics vs. Pile Fabrics

    Q: What is the difference between nap and pile when you’re describing a fabric’s texture? Do you have to treat fabrics differently depending on whether they have nap or pile?…

  • Q&A: Locating the Waistline

    Q: I’m planning to make some fitting adjustments to a pattern, but the waistline is not marked on it. How do I determine where the waistline is on the pattern?…

    Embellishments

  • How to Sew Shisha Embroidery

    Shisha embroidery is the technique of stitching a border around small pieces of metal or glass to attach them to fabric. It originated in Southeast Asia, and examples of shisha…

    Pattern Review

  • Pattern Review: Simplicity 8889

    Designed by Mimi G, this outfit is a fun and versatile concept. The boxy shirt has a mix of classic and fresh details featuring a traditional shirt collar with a…

  • Pattern Review: Itch to Stitch: Oia Dress

    A chic and summery garment, this dress with lace-up front detail is a warm weather staple. This design has an inset waistband, wide shoulder straps that continue into the bodice…

  • Pattern Review: DP’s by DP Studio: Panel Dress Cut at the Waist Le 9005

    This loose-fitting dress has a front bodice with overlapping panels, a triangular back panel, elastic-gathered waist, and a slight A-line skirt with cut-on in-seam pockets. The front underpanel has a…

  • Pattern Review: Butterick 6721

    Sporty seams and a wide collar make this unlined jacket designed by Connie Crawford a great look for daywear. It is loose-fitting and has a front button closure, side-front panel…

  • Pattern Review: Butterick 6717

    Butterick 6717 This ensemble pattern includes four garments. View A is a hip-length unlined jacket with rolled collar, full-length sleeves, and a self-fabric belt. View B is a duster-style unlined…

  • Pattern Review: Simplicity 8955

    Simplicity 8955 A relaxed design, this unlined hip-length jacket has three views. All views include raglan sleeves and a shawl collar. View A is double-breasted with turned-back cuffs. It has…

  • Pattern Review: Megan Nielsen Ash and Ash Curve Jeans

    Megan Nielsen: Ash and Ash Curve jeans These pants have many classic jeans details, such as belt loops, a fly front, fivepocket design, and a curved back yoke. What sets…

  • Pattern Review: Deer and Doe Sirocco Jumpsuit

    Deer and Doe: Sirocco Jumpsuit This short-sleeve jumpsuit and romper will hug and highlight your curves. It has a surplice bodice, a 1-inch-wide neckline band, an inset waistband, and diagonal…

    Fabric Lab

  • How to Sew with Terrycloth

    Typically the go-to fabric for towels and bathrobes, terrycloth has desirable characteristics for a variety of garments. Standard terrycloth has a looped surface on both sides. French terry has a…

    Closures

  • Matriarchs and Soldiers

    When I was a child, I loved to eavesdrop while my aunt and grandmother sewed together and told family stories. I was inspired by the strong women in my family…

    How Did They Sew That

  • How to Sew Wool Double-Knit Applique

    Italian fashion of the 20th century has a reputation for exquisite fabrications, up-beat and contemporary style, and high-quality construction that ensures longevity. This Italian dress from 1969 was made when…

    Essential Techniques

  • The Secret to Couture Gathering

    Whether in ruffles, at skirt waistlines, or in the caps of puffy sleeves, gathers are used in subtle or dramatic ways to add volume, shape, and interest. There’s nothing lovelier…

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