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How-to

Learn Two Ways to Support the Collar Stand on a Finished Shirt

Two ways to add support to a completed shirt

Threads Issue #211, Oct./Nov. 2020
Article Image
Support a droopy collar with a hidden appliquéd collar stand. Pattern: McCall’s 6613. Fabric: rayon shirting, Affordable Fabrics, Rocky Hill, Connecticut.

A collar stand sometimes turns out too weak to adequately support the collar, and a shirt or blouse’s neckline looks sloppy. You may have noticed this on a garment you purchased that hasn’t stood up well to washing and wearing, or on one you made yourself in which your interfacing choice turned out to be too soft. I’ll show you two methods for correcting a droopy collar stand. Either works to save a favorite shirt in less than an hour. Both additions— an appliqué or a ribbon— can be attached to the interior or exterior collar stand, depending on the look you want.

Appliqué an extra layer

If you made the shirt, you already have the stand pattern. If not, you can trace the stand onto organza or tissue and make your own pattern.

1. Make a collar stand template

Trace the original stand pattern onto oak tag or other heavy paper, and remove the seam allowances from all edges. Make a full or half-template.

2. Cut the fabric

Using the original stand pattern, cut one stand from contrasting or matching fabric. With the template, cut one stand from interfacing.

3. Fuse and press the stand

Lay the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric stand so seam allowances extend on all sides, and fuse. Then place the template on the interfacing, fold the stand’s seam allowances to the wrong side, and press.

collar stand pattern

4. Appliqué the stand to the shirt

Position the new stand on the shirt’s stand facing, wrong side down. Pin, baste, or secure with fusible web tape. Then edgestitch around the appliqué to attach it permanently.

applique collar stand


Tip: Avoid the buttonhole

If you don’t want to remove the button or resew the buttonhole through the appliquéd stand, trim the stand ends shy of center front.


Reinforce with ribbon

If you don’t have time to make a pattern for an appliqué, a length of petersham ribbon offers an even quicker fix.

reinforce collar with ribbon

1. Press the ribbon

Choose ribbon the same width as, or slightly narrower than, the collar stand. Cut a length of ribbon either the stand length plus seam allowances or shorter, to avoid the buttonhole and button. Press under each end by 1/4 inch. Steam-press the ribbon to form a slight curve to match the stand’s shape.

2. Attach the ribbon

Align it along the outer collar stand’s neckline seam and pin, baste, or fuse it in place. Edgestitch around all sides, and press again.

attach ribbon to shirt collar

 

Carol J. Fresia is Threads’ senior technical editor.

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