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Add a Sleeve Head to Any Garment

An often overlooked tailoring element adds support and shape

Threads, Issue #210, August/September
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Garments from any fabric can benefit from the support of a sleeve head.

Garments always look better when their sleeves extend from the body so smoothly the attachment area looks nearly seamless. Even if you manage to control the sleeve-cap ease and avoid a puckered seamline, the sleeve cap may have empty space within, between the shoulder and upper arm, where the sleeve curves downward from the armscye seam. Instead of looking sculpted, the sleeve cap collapses, creating a hollow area; the armscye seam allowances may show through as a row of uneven lumps. This can happen in any garment, from a fluid silk blouse to a strictly tailored coat or jacket.

One of the easiest and most successful ways to solve this problem is by supporting the sleeve cap with a well-designed sleeve head. This simple tailoring technique is often overlooked in sewing sources; you’ll rarely find it mentioned in a standard commercial pattern. However, once you understand the concept and become…

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