How to Make a Precision Placket
8. Fold the column along line 5, and bring line 6 to meet stitching line 4. Finger-press the edge in place. Once everything is aligned accurately, press the column's cuff end only with an iron to adhere the fusible web tape.
9. Fold the tall column's top along the diagonal foldlines to form a point. Cut a small piece of fusible web tape, and finger-press it to the point's wrong side. Remove the paper, then finger-press the point to the sleeve. The point should be perfectly centered over the column; check with a ruler. Press the entire placket with an iron.
10. Topstitch the tall column with an open-toe foot on your machine. Stitch from the placket's cuff end along the outer edge to the placket point's tip. Pivot with the needle down, and stitch the remaining edge for about 1 inch. Then pivot 90 degrees, and stitch across the column to the first topstitched line. This secures the tall column to the inner column. Pull thread ends to the placket's wrong side and knot.
11. Add decorative topstitching to the placket's point. Form a square or rectangle; topstitch an X; or add other stitched shapes or lines. This is a good place to be creative.
12. Add a small buttonhole and button to the placket, if desired. Finish the sleeve and attach the cuff according to your pattern's instructions. You now have a professional-looking sleeve with a precisely formed placket.
Tip: Add this placket at tunic hem vents or pant and capri leg vents, as shown with Simplicity Threads 1919, view D, in cotton twill. Adjust the placket length from the bottom edge to fit the hem vent.
by Marguerite Leblanc
from Threads #161, p.55
Posted on Apr 18th, 2012 in sewing, online extras, garment construction, All How-To, threads magazine, sleeve, threads issue 161, placket