How to Interface Jackets: Lessons from an Yves Saint Laurent Garment
The interfacing techniques for Yves Saint Laurent are my favorite for tailored jackets because they hold their shape and maintain their pristine appearance for decades. More importantly, the interfacings are cut on the bias and sewn in so they move with the body and don't have the rigid, boardy look of fusibles.
I have several YSL couture suits in my vintage collection and, even though there are some small differences in the way they are interfaced, the basics are the same.
|This wool gabardine jacket from the 1980s is a good example. (I've removed the button so I can show you the interfacing on the inside.)|
The front interfacing (lightweight hair canvas) is the same size as the jacket front and cut on the bias. The chest piece – a second piece of interfacing – extends from the roll line and shoulder to the top of the bust so the jacket will have a smooth line above the bust. It is slightly heavier, cut on the bias, and machine quilted with one-inch squares to the front interfacing. I have another jacket that is hand-quilted instead.
|The interfacing is pad-stitched by hand at the lapel. This jacket does not have a bridle on the roll line, but some YSL jackets do.|
Posted on Apr 8th, 2013 in sewing, design, garment construction, bias, interface, tailored jackets