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How to Embroider Garments Like Penn & Fletcher

Andrew creates a design on heavy tracing paper.
 The re-created embroidery.
On the machine, embroidery artisan Matilda Morillo works under a black light to see the markings while she guides the embroidery machine with one hand from under the table on a two-thread version of a Bonnaz feed machine.
Andrew creates a design on heavy tracing paper.

Andrew creates a design on heavy tracing paper.


Readers learned about Penn & Fletcher in Threads #167. Here's more of the story behind this embroidery house.

On a rainy day in December, contributing editor Kenneth D. King and Senior Technical Editor Judith Neukam paid a visit to Penn & Fletcher with photographer Rob Berezowski. Art Department chief Andrew Marlay demonstrated the various ways of marking fabric for embroidery. Some of the images we didn't have room to include in the published article are s­­­­­­­hown below.

Create design First, Andrew creates a design on heavy tracing paper. He starts with pencil so he can erase if needed. When he's satisfied with the design, he traces over it with permanent ink.

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Comments (18)

josephfain josephfain writes: Thanks for sharing this.
Posted: 8:06 am on July 16th

Ashtonjames Ashtonjames writes: i appreciate this article.
Posted: 12:59 pm on January 27th

Kavinjose Kavinjose writes: great article good job
Posted: 1:32 pm on June 30th

Ashtonjames Ashtonjames writes: keep it up
Posted: 10:48 am on May 12th

seanbell3 seanbell3 writes: BRAVOOOO... Very Well...
Posted: 1:38 am on October 30th

Robzikshi Robzikshi writes: This is great work done
Posted: 6:34 am on May 22nd

ASiverson ASiverson writes: Love the article and the beautiful embroidery. Fantastic. Thank you so much for this article. And, DH and I are cat lovers too! Meow!
Posted: 11:48 am on November 13th

LuvThreadsMagazine LuvThreadsMagazine writes: Ode to rainy days in December, curious cats, and learning new skills.

Posted: 11:59 am on May 27th

user-313021 user-313021 writes: To be able to take a class with this Masters would be a dream come true!
Posted: 9:57 pm on May 22nd

Carly_Sue Carly_Sue writes: I enjoyed this article so very much. I always really appreciate what others are doing and I love the vintage past. This embroidery is just exquisite. I wish I could attend their classes. I appreciate you too, Threads, for such a wonderful magazine and website.
Posted: 10:48 am on May 4th

LindaG7 LindaG7 writes: It is nice to get a closer look at how the best work is done.
Wish I could take the class to learn more, but I'm extremely allergic to cats!
Oh well.

Posted: 1:15 am on May 4th

cxissy cxissy writes: wonderful article . wish I lived in the states so I could go . it would be amazing . love the wax technique so much neater than French chalk.
Posted: 4:49 pm on May 2nd

SansSouci572 SansSouci572 writes: Outstanding!
Posted: 12:14 pm on May 2nd

NinaLBoston NinaLBoston writes: I appreciate these articles that illustrate the many fine crafts that go into modern and antique home dec and clothing. It's always a revelation. I hope that such work continues. I wish I could afford something graced with this beautiful embroidery!
Posted: 8:17 am on May 1st

DebraMartin DebraMartin writes: Thank you for this article. I loved seeing the detailed photographs.
Posted: 8:16 am on May 1st

newimage newimage writes: This article and mini-tour of Penn & Fletcher has been a revelation, such artistry needs preserving for posterity. Many thanks Threads for such an experience. Joan, Australia.
Posted: 6:58 pm on April 30th

EGJ EGJ writes: Wow this is exciting! I used to work for an embroidery company that did all their work by hand in India. I would love to take this class here in NYC!
Posted: 4:59 pm on April 30th

KennethDKing KennethDKing writes: This company is the Lesage of the United States. They do such extraordinary work! The possibility of learning from them is really exciting, and I'm going to keep looking in on them to see how this is all progressing. Stay tuned!
Posted: 9:11 am on April 27th

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