How to Support a Dramatic Sleeve Cap
There are standard shoulder pads and shaped and extended shoulder pads that can provide support in the top of a sleeve, and there are all manner of sleeve heads. However, none of these options was right when it came to supporting the pleated sleeves on a wool jacket created recently by a student in San Diego.
Jeanne Roy was inspired by the Steam Punk overtones of Simplicity 1732, but wanted to scale things down. She wanted to wear the jacket to work, so she didn't want it to feel "costume-y." And while it would eventually have a black sheared fur collar and cuffs, it would still work at the office.
When she was working on her muslin in advance of the class, Jeanne cut down the sleeve cap considerably but what was left needed more drama. She used a beautifully bodied purple and black wool that she'd found recently at Mood Fabrics in Los Angeles. While the sleeves were underlined with silk organza, we knew she needed help to keep their dramatic contours in place. Jeanne certainly didn't need shoulder pads, and we didn't want to add bulk to the armscye with a traditional sleeve head.
Jeanne's initial fit, with the jacket hand-basted together, let us know that we were on the right track with the proportions of the sleeve cap.