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How to Support a Dramatic Sleeve Cap

There are standard shoulder pads and shaped and extended shoulder pads that can provide support in the top of a sleeve, and there are all manner of sleeve heads. However, none of these options was right when it came to supporting the pleated sleeves on a wool jacket created recently by a student in San Diego. 

Jeanne Roy was inspired by the Steam Punk overtones of Simplicity 1732, but wanted to scale things down. She wanted to wear the jacket to work, so she didn't want it to feel "costume-y." And while it would eventually have a black sheared fur collar and cuffs, it would still work at the office.

When she was working on her muslin in advance of the class, Jeanne cut down the sleeve cap considerably but what was left needed more drama. She used a beautifully bodied purple and black wool that she'd found recently at Mood Fabrics in Los Angeles. While the sleeves were underlined with silk organza, we knew she needed help to keep their dramatic contours in place. Jeanne certainly didn't need shoulder pads, and we didn't want to add bulk to the armscye with a traditional sleeve head.

Jeanne's initial fit, with the jacket hand-basted together, let us know that we were on the right track with the proportions of the sleeve cap.

  We decided to do some spot interfacing. We used two layers. Thanks to the bodied wool, we didn't need anything to keep the pleats in place. But we did need to keep the area just below them nicely shaped and supported. Enter tricot interfacing, which we fused to the silk organza underlining.

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Comments (30)

AlfonsoTaylor AlfonsoTaylor writes: good work
Posted: 10:43 am on July 16th

FrancisWalsh FrancisWalsh writes: Keep Up The Good Work!
Posted: 2:11 pm on May 31st

Ashtonjames Ashtonjames writes: smart piece
Posted: 12:51 pm on January 27th

Johnychamp Johnychamp writes: good work
Posted: 4:09 am on October 13th

FelisaRussell FelisaRussell writes: nice one
Posted: 12:12 pm on July 5th

GeorgeHarris GeorgeHarris writes: thanks for sharing.
Posted: 4:24 am on May 22nd

Brunojohn Brunojohn writes: Wow amazing
Posted: 1:10 pm on May 17th

Davidecristiana11 Davidecristiana11 writes: cool
Posted: 12:56 am on May 3rd

jacobjohn11 jacobjohn11 writes: looking good
Posted: 12:15 pm on May 2nd

MacGarnett MacGarnett writes: its too good
Posted: 12:35 pm on May 1st

Albert_Robert Albert_Robert writes: Good Work
Posted: 12:30 pm on April 20th

alliancelimo alliancelimo writes: nice idea
Posted: 2:39 am on April 8th

Carolyoung Carolyoung writes: Well done
Posted: 4:04 am on March 13th

dennysmudge dennysmudge writes: Good one
Posted: 10:55 am on February 11th

DarylLee1 DarylLee1 writes: well done mam
Posted: 3:13 am on January 20th

prophc prophc writes: great stuff
Posted: 2:11 am on October 28th

JulienOrmidal JulienOrmidal writes: Thanks for sharing
Posted: 2:43 pm on August 3rd

Garber75 Garber75 writes: very impressive. I'll try it for sure.
Posted: 8:04 am on July 22nd

Ashtonjames Ashtonjames writes: too good
Posted: 2:04 am on July 3rd

Lissa53 Lissa53 writes: very nice
Posted: 7:24 am on June 25th

Deepak786 Deepak786 writes: amazing
Posted: 6:59 am on June 22nd

Mack007 Mack007 writes: nice stuff
Posted: 2:31 am on March 17th

jamiekrover jamiekrover writes: like it
Posted: 5:50 am on March 12th

shaunpollock shaunpollock writes: superb stuff loved it
Posted: 5:05 am on March 4th

Ziggybug Ziggybug writes: I love the effect. Thank you for great photos. I too would love to see the finished product. A perfect sleeve adds so much to any garment. It is one of my favorite design details. Thank you Susan for sharing.
Posted: 4:14 pm on February 18th

jbsews jbsews writes: Very helpful and informative! Thank you for sharing!
Posted: 9:36 pm on September 2nd

GMterrie GMterrie writes: Susan, I have been an ardent admirer of yours for many years now. Any information from you is priceless to me. Thank you for sharing your gift with us.

This little tutorial is great. The pictures are spot-on. It would be nice to see the finished jacket.
Posted: 8:27 am on April 6th

troster troster writes: What was the class? And may we see a picture of finished product? Thanks for doing that voodoo that you do!
Kind regards,
Posted: 3:53 pm on April 4th

MaRoseBear MaRoseBear writes: LOVE this.
Posted: 5:59 pm on April 1st

RKentspeth RKentspeth writes: Wow, that looks amazing! I'd love to see the finished project.

Posted: 4:43 pm on April 1st

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