How to Support a Dramatic Sleeve Cap - Threads

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How to Support a Dramatic Sleeve Cap

There are standard shoulder pads and shaped and extended shoulder pads that can provide support in the top of a sleeve, and there are all manner of sleeve heads. However, none of these options was right when it came to supporting the pleated sleeves on a wool jacket created recently by a student in San Diego. 

Jeanne Roy was inspired by the Steam Punk overtones of Simplicity 1732, but wanted to scale things down. She wanted to wear the jacket to work, so she didn't want it to feel "costume-y." And while it would eventually have a black sheared fur collar and cuffs, it would still work at the office.

When she was working on her muslin in advance of the class, Jeanne cut down the sleeve cap considerably but what was left needed more drama. She used a beautifully bodied purple and black wool that she'd found recently at Mood Fabrics in Los Angeles. While the sleeves were underlined with silk organza, we knew she needed help to keep their dramatic contours in place. Jeanne certainly didn't need shoulder pads, and we didn't want to add bulk to the armscye with a traditional sleeve head.

Jeanne's initial fit, with the jacket hand-basted together, let us know that we were on the right track with the proportions of the sleeve cap.

  We decided to do some spot interfacing. We used two layers. Thanks to the bodied wool, we didn't need anything to keep the pleats in place. But we did need to keep the area just below them nicely shaped and supported. Enter tricot interfacing, which we fused to the silk organza underlining.

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Comments (4)

GMterrie GMterrie writes: Susan, I have been an ardent admirer of yours for many years now. Any information from you is priceless to me. Thank you for sharing your gift with us.

This little tutorial is great. The pictures are spot-on. It would be nice to see the finished jacket.
Posted: 8:27 am on April 6th

troster troster writes: What was the class? And may we see a picture of finished product? Thanks for doing that voodoo that you do!
Kind regards,
Posted: 3:53 pm on April 4th

MaRoseBear MaRoseBear writes: LOVE this.
Posted: 5:59 pm on April 1st

RKentspeth RKentspeth writes: Wow, that looks amazing! I'd love to see the finished project.

Posted: 4:43 pm on April 1st

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