Pants Fitting, Example 2 | Video
This full fitting is on a model with a fuller seat and thighs than the standard commercial pattern.
In this episode, fitting expert Sarah Veblen walks the viewer through a full fitting of a pants muslin on a model. She assesses the alignment of the grainlines and horizontal balance lines on the muslin, and she shows how to eliminate excess fabric or add space where needed and how to correct the overall drape of the pants.
The model in this video has a fuller seat and thighs than is standard for a commercial pattern. Fit issues with this body type include excess fabric across the front and at the side seams, an incorrect crotch curve, and drag lines across the back thighs. Sarah resolves these problems and demonstrates the pinning of custom-fitted darts at the waist.
Other videos in this series:
Introduction to Pants Fitting | Video
Pants Fitting, Example 1 | Video
Pants Patterns Compared | Video
Choose the Best Size for Fitting a Muslin | Video
A Tip for Fitting the Back Crotch Curve | Video
Is there a source you can give for purchasing muslin fabric pre-marked with Horizontal and vertical balance lines?
In Sarah's method, the grainlines and horizontal balance lines (HBLs) are applied to the pattern, then transferred to the muslin. The grainlines should be centered on each pant front and back. The HBLs are added in three places: At about crotch level; and a 2-inch to 3-inch intervals above that. The placement depends on the pants pattern and the size you're working with. They're easy to add yourself. First, draw the grainline. Then add the lowest HBL to the pants front, perpendicular to the grainline. Draw the additional two HBLs above the first one. Then, transfer these levels at the side seam to the pants back, so the HBLS will align at the side seam when the pants are sewn.
In some fitting methods, you're instructed to make the muslin from gingham, which works as a "grid." However, Sarah feels that there are so many lines, packed so close together, that it's difficult to see the distortion that reveals fitting problems.
Carol Fresia, Threads Senior Technical Editor
I am so grateful for this video series - it came at just the right time for me. I want to sew school pants for my granddaughter of almost 9 years. They wear uniform and the RTW pants don't fit her, because she has the same build as the lady in this video, just more pronounced. This is helping a great deal - thanks so much!!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you..demystifying pants fitting. Thank you.