Threads Logo Threads Logo Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon
Insider

Sign in or become an insider to access this story

Sign In

Make a Mixed-Print Jacket with a Squared Armhole

Multiply your design and fit opportunities
Threads #199, Oct./Nov. 2018
Article Image
A straight underarm seam and side panels simplify jacket construction. Pattern: Tabula Rasa Jacket, FitforArtPatterns. Fabrics: author’s stash.

Pattern blocking and embellishment are perennial sights on fashion runways, and I’ve enjoyed participating in this creative direction. However, many of the top designer examples are often shown on dramatically oversized garments. A bold print mix on a large-scaled silhouette can be visually overwhelming on all but the most statuesque frames. To make this style statement wearable—rather than over-the-top—a suitable garment pattern is essential. Enter the squared armhole. The pattern should offer uninterrupted areas for decoration, but be streamlined enough to flatter the figure.

Linear pattern with plaids and stripes.
The linear patterns of menswear stripes, plaids, and checks work well with the jacket’s straight seamlines.

To fulfill these requirements, I have developed the Tabula Rasa Jacket pattern (FitForArtPatterns.com). Its natural shoulder line, relaxed fit, and vertical panel seams provide options for pattern blocking, while contributing to a slimming effect on the body. Unique to this design is its squared armhole shape: The underarm area is straight, not curved, and the sleeve attaches to a side panel in a horizontal seam. This makes fit adjustments and garment construction straightforward and quick.

This sleeve and armhole style is reminiscent of traditional ethnic garments, such as kimono or bog coats, where the sleeves are rectangles joined to a rectangular bodice. Those styles create excess fabric around the armholes and bust, which can distort or obscure fabric motifs or embellishment. To solve this, I’ve merged the squared underarm with a rounded, set-in shoulder style. The Tabula Rasa pattern provides flattering definition through the shoulders and falls softly over the body’s curves below the armhole. It’s streamlined and modern, while offering enough space in the bodice panels for creative embellishment or other design options.

I’ll show you easy steps to a good fit with this pattern and demonstrate how simple the sewing…

Start your 14-day FREE trial to access this story.

Start your FREE trial today and get instant access to this article plus access to all Threads Insider content.

Start Your Free Trial

Sign up for the Threads eletter

Get the latest including tips, techniques and special offers straight to your inbox.

Sign Up
×
Discuss

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Subscribe to Threads today

Save up to 42% and get a free gift

Subscribe

Log in or become a member to post a comment.

More From Threads

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Shop the Store

View All
View More