When you’re sewing silk, consider the type of seam you sew. Follow along as instructor Katrina Walker explains how to choose an appropriate seam type, and how to sew a French seam, in this episode of the Sewing with Silk video series.
Delicate fabrics often call for specialty seams. They are more practical and more attractive. With silk, you want a seam that supports the fabric, to keep it from being damaged when the garment is worn. A double-stitched seam, or one that encloses the seam allowances, prevents fraying and slippage.
A French seam looks neat on the right side and wrong side. It also protects the seam allowances. If you want to make a charmeuse pillowcase, use a French seam.
Start by sewing the seam with the wrong sides together, using a 1/4-inch-wide seam allowance. Press the allowances to one side, then trim them slightly, to about 1/8 inch wide.
Now turn the fabric layers so they are right sides together, and fold along the previous seamline. Sew again at 1/4 inch. The fabric’s turn of cloth consumes the extra 1/8 inch in the seam allowances. Press the seam allowances to one side, and the seam is done.
I like to trim my seam with a rotary cutter before pressing it to one side. It is quicker and neater looking. I admit it is harder to press the trimmed seam open because it is so small, so I usually always press to one side.