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Add Gradual Width

Jun 06, 2011
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There are a variety of ways to add width to the front of a pattern. I like to increase the circumference gradually from the shoulder to the hem. One good place to start making this adjustment is the area about halfway along the shoulder seam, where it doesn’t interfere with the neckline and all the additional pattern pieces that would incur or the armscye, where it would have to contend with the sleeve being inserted. This method adds nothing along the shoulder seam, a small amount through the upper chest area, a bit more over the bust and the greatest amount at the hip area. By placing the alteration hinge at the shoulder seam, you can adjust just the front, nothing else would have to be adjusted to the back along the shoulder seam or anywhere on the back pattern piece for that matter. This adjustment might be especially useful for women who have succeeded in fitting the bust, but whose jackets still won’t hang perfectly vertical at the center front edges. These edges may still open diagonally over a tummy area.  1. If needed, redraw the grainline so it is near the center front and won’t be affected by the adjustment.  Be sure it remains parallel to center…

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  1. jkchoi24 August 18th

    can you use the same concept but reverse process to decrease the width of a pattern( all patterns have too much room at the hip and waist line)?

  2. lindagee June 20th

    Couldn't be timelier for me - I need to add almost 2 inches through the midriff of my blouse pattern. This may be much easier than what I had planned to do. Thanks so much!

  3. karen805 June 13th

    OMG how simple...I could have used it this weekend but next time I will know what to do. This is all a learning process and I have just added another valuable piece of information towards becoming an accomplished sewer. Thank you Louise

  4. User avater Mahogany_Stylist June 10th

    Thanks for the tip. This makes adding width at the hips easy.

  5. AudieSue June 8th

    I am new to this group. I like the idea that these are
    tuck/pleats or whatever. I am just thankful that Threads so kindly brings us this type of help (seeing is better).

  6. User avater sewingharlot June 7th

    Perfect timing! I was just in my studio trying to find an easy way of adjusting a t-shirt pattern for my hubby!Thanks so much

  7. soxfan999 June 7th

    Louise has a way of making things easy to understand. I'm looking forward to trying this tip.

  8. jansquires June 7th

    Louise has an unique way of making adjustments simple. Thank you Sew much. She is by far one of the best educators and I appreciate the time she shares with us through Threads.

  9. Moonbeams June 7th

    Ah, the ability to fit things without buying a larger pattern just for the bust size. Thanks so very much.

    Pat

  10. User avater MaddyGranma June 7th

    Super article! There are so many complicated tutorials for adjusting a pattern, it is refreshing and inspiring to see that 7 steps are not better than 2 or 3. And from a person such as Louise Cutting makes the tutorial that much more valuable! I hope to take a class from Louise soon...soon...soon!

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