Leather Passementerie
June 1st, 2009 in sewing, design, embellishments, embroidery
Kenneth King, contributor
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This a photo of the finished trim on the garment. The shine of the 2mm thick leather cord is a nice contrast to the matte of the fur, and works well texturally with the leather.
Photo: Kenneth D. King
This trim evolved during a project I've been working on--a broadtail fur and alligator-stamped leather jacket. I wanted a softer transition from the leather to the fur, so I developed this particular design for the project.
1. To prepare the leather, mark lines on the wrong side parallel to the edge. Mark the first line 3/8” from the leather edge and the second 3/8" away and parallel to the first line. Then mark points along these lines, ¼” apart. Punch these with a small diameter hole puncher.
2. Sew the 2mm round leather cord, with a "packing and sacking" needle from the specialty needle packages you can buy in any sewing store. When sewing the leather to the fur, use a diagonal stitch over the cut edge of the leather, and sew the edge to the fur. Next, sew the second row of diagonal stitches, as shown, to make two rows of diagonal stitches. This is the foundation for the passementerie.
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3. Here you can see the packing and sacking needle sewing the cord. After sewing the foundation stitching through all thicknesses, weave the rest of the cording through the foundation stitching, not through the leather.
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4. Sew the first row of knots through the intersection of every fourth diagonal.
5. Pass the needle right to left under the cord on the top row of foundation stitching and back left to right through the bottom row of foundation stitching to form a loop.
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6. Next, pass the needle over the foundation stitching and through the loop.
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7. Pull the cord to close the loop and form the knot.
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This is what the first row looks like.
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8. For the next row of knots, channel the needle under three of the top foundation row as shown, emerge one cord before the knot below. Then change needle direction and pass it through the adjoining diagonal foundation stitch below as shown.
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9. Change needle direction again and pass it under the loop formed in the last step, and immediately under the next three upper row diagonal cordss. Pull up the slack.
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10. Repeat the last two steps all along the length of the work. This photo is step one of this process.
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11. This photo is step two of the process.
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12. For the third row of knots, pass the needle under four upper row diagonal cords.
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13. Next, pass the needle back around the fourth diagonal, and under three new ones, as shown.
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14. Pull the stitch closed. Repeat along the row of work.
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15. For the final row of work, first pass the needle under two of the upper row of diagonals.
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16. Then, pass the needle backwards through the loop you created in the last row of weaving.
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17. Finally, pass the needle through the next two of the upper rows of diagonals. Repeat the last two steps all along the row of work.
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18. And here you have the full effect of all of your work! Enjoy!
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