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Sewing Techniques for a Boyfriend Cardigan Jacket

I want to share construction details I used on the knit boyfriend cardigan jacket from my 2022 Threads Luxury Loungewear Challenge collection. The jacket pattern is from BurdaStyle (September 2013), and is shown on the cover.

Burda Style 2013 cover

I’ve been admiring this beauty for a while. Luckily, I had the perfect fabric in my stash, a beautiful charcoal gray ponte knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. It was the right weight and color, and I had enough to cut out the cardigan, belt, and a tank top to match.

Boyfriend cardigan jacket’s unique sleeve cap

Boyfriend Cardi Jacket design features sleeve cap bands

This cardi features shaped sleeve cap bands, front and back neckbands/facings, cuffs, patch pockets, and a matching belt. I chose to use a contrast fabric for the belt facing, also from my collection. The construction was straightforward.

I did not want to line this cardigan, as it is loose-fitting and the fabric is medium- to heavyweight ponte knit. Since I wanted it to have a clean finish on the inside, I decided to use the lighter weight “travel knit” from Hobby Lobby, only to line the sleeve-cap bands and cover the curved seams.

 

Boyfriend cardi jacket construction

These are the steps I used and you may find useful when constructing a similar unlined garment.

Sleeve-cap bands

1. For the sleeve-cap bands, place the right side of the lining to the wrong side of the bands. Machine-sew them on at the armscye seam.

2. Press the lining down and tailor-tack it at the cap’s center to make sure it matches there.

Tailor-tack the center to keep the lining in place at the sleep cap

3. Turn the lining’s free edge under and pin.

Turn the lining's free edge under and pin

4. Then thread-baste in place to eliminate the need for pins. This will keep you from snagging the knit fabrics.

5. Fell-stitch or slipstitch the lining in place.

Fell-stitch or slipstitch the boyfriend cardi jacket lining in place.

Here is the finished sleeve-cap band lining.

 

Interfacing and pockets

1. Apply…

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  1. SueLv | | #1

    Great article but can I just comment that when anyone references BurdaStyle Magazine patterns can they please use the pattern number. BurdaStyle magazine has different covers in different countries, my Spanish version certainly doesn't have that front cover :D

  2. jclegg | | #2

    Hello SueLv, Here is a link to the pattern: https://www.burdastyle.com/boyfriend-cardigan-09-2013.html. I do not see a pattern number on this version except for the month and year of the issue where it appeared. Thank you for your interest. - Jeannine Clegg, Threads.

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