Add Style with Graphic Fabric Insertions

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Threads Magazine, editor

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Dramatic insertions replace darts and, in some cases vertical seams in this all-bias, 4-ply dress.

Jack Deutsch

Machine-sew the insertion into the garment.

Carol Fresia

A few artfully placed insertions turn a basic linen caimsole into a couture top-without disrupting the flow of the lightweight fabric.

Scott Phillips

Dramatic insertions replace darts and, in some cases vertical seams in this all-bias, 4-ply dress.

Photo: Jack Deutsch

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Hand-, then machine-sew for smooth insertion seams
Sewing the insertion into the garment section is a multistep process.

Pin the insertions to the fabric.
Pin the insertion onto the right side of the garment section, turning under the seam allowances as you go.

Hand-stitch the insertion in place.
By hand, slip-baste the insertion onto the garment, using very small stitches and a second color of silk thread. Take care not to shift the fabric as you sew. The stitches should be all but invisible when the insertion is fully attached in this step. Press the insertion flat.

Slash and trim the garment fabric.
From the wrong side, slash the garment fabric behind the insertion. Trim away the fabric to leave a seam allowance of 3⁄4 to 1 inch, and carefully snip into any corners to release the folded insertion seam allowances.

Machine-sew the insertion into the garment.
With the insertion against the feed dogs, stitch the insertion to the garment, sewing exactly on the thread-tracing lines. At corners, unfold the turned-under seam allowances and pivot at the exact corner. On any long bias seams, stretch the fabric slightly to match the expected easing of the fabric after the bias hangs out. Pull the thread ends to one side and tie them off; remove all silk thread tracing and hand stitching.

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Comments (9)

Luxiraj writes: Thanks a ton for this. I made a kameez with neckline detail using this and it turned out pretty good.
Posted: 9:12 am on February 10th

fashion_conscious writes: Keep up the good work. Ideas like these are just great. I've utilised ideas like these before and go raving revues.
Posted: 5:46 am on February 6th

Maillady writes: When I first considered the concept of "insertion," and knowing how the corners are hard to make lie down flat, I was skeptical; but after reading the brief article and the way the "insertion" was described, it sounds like a great fashion option, and one I will put under my hat for future design use. Thanks for all the great ideas!
Posted: 8:00 pm on February 5th

dolcam writes: Love the insertions. Can't wait to try it myself. The dress just seems to flow beautifully. Thank you for the wonderful inspiration.
Posted: 8:49 pm on February 3rd

Creative60 writes: I have enjoyed the many articles on sewing techniques.
Posted: 3:32 am on February 3rd

pmvint writes: Great article! Can't wait to try it. Thanks for the photos and concise directions.
Posted: 7:13 pm on February 2nd

SabrinaStyle writes: This looks great -- like it's part of the garment fabric, and it's so well done.These instructions are really clear and the photos are truly helpful.

I wonder if Pamela Ptak has written any books?

Thanks so much for posting this article!
Posted: 12:00 pm on February 2nd

BarbaraSki writes: Wonderful article and very inspiring - I'm pondering my pattern & fabric "resource center" for the right combo to use this technique. Too bad Pam didn't have sufficient time to show off her excellent skills. I think she was "awfed" way to early.
Posted: 11:43 am on February 2nd

meorens writes: Thanks for sharing this great article by Pamela Ptak. She is a wealth of talent and expertise, and I hope you print more from her.
Posted: 11:35 pm on February 1st

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