How to Reduce Collar Bulk
Contributing editor, Louise Cutting, shares a great technique to smooth away a collar's bulky points and edges from "A Better Collar" in Threads issue #166. The secret is in reworking the collar pattern piece to shift the front edge seams, thus eliminating the stiffness and lumps these seams cause. This altered version works well if you like to wear collars standing up (which puts more color around your face and makes your neck look longer). The collar stays where you place it because this technique puts the undercollar on the bias. This easy-to-follow tutorial will leave you with the perfect collar!
Make the new pattern
The revised collar pattern for this technique starts with the original collar pattern. It can come as one piece cut on a fold or as two pieces-the upper collar and undercollar; follow the same directions for both.
1. Start with a half-collar pattern piece. Usually a collar pattern instructs to cut two on the fold. This example shows a typical half-collar pattern, with the center back placed on the fold. With the collar pattern wrong side up, copy the collar shape to tracing paper. If the seamlines aren't included on the pattern, draw them on. If your copier prints at 100 percent, you can also photocopy the collar pattern, but make sure the collar pattern is placed wrong side up in the copier. You now have two halfcollar pieces, one for the upper collar and one for the undercollar.
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2. Add a 5⁄8-inch-wide seam allowance to the undercollar pattern piece's center back. Extend the seam allowance from the center-back line.
3. Tape the upper-and undercollar pieces together, aligning the short front seamlines. Overlap the collar pattern piece along the seamlines drawn in step 2. Label these seamlines as foldlines. The little points at the ends of the collar may stick out beyond the cutting line on the outside collar edge. These points are not needed and may be cut off. The angle of the collar's front edge varies between patterns; consequently, the drafted one-piece collar shape also varies.
Posted on Apr 2nd, 2013 in sewing, garment construction, pattern, collar, issue #166