Claire B. Shaeffer, an expert in couture sewing techniques, shares her method for sewing darts. The key element for sewing flat, smooth darts is the addition of a balance strip on the wrong side. By balancing the dart, the dart’s intake won’t create an impression on the garment’s right side.
Prepare the dart
Mark the dart legs with thread tracing. Also mark any match points at the center and ends, and the dart’s foldline. Fold the dart along its foldline, and begin pinning it at one end, and check that you’ve accurately matched the dart legs and points.
Baste the dart with a long running stitch.
Add the balance strip
The balance strip can be self-fabric or interfacing of a weight suitable to the garment. Cut a bias strip about 2 inches wide by the length of the dart plus 1/2 inch at each end,…
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