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Threads #207, Feb./March 2020

Couture Tool Kit

In high-level sewing, you seek control of the process, from beginning to end. The correct tools make each step easier and faster as you pin, mark, cut, shape, sew, and…

    Articles

  • Spring Fashion Forecast

    This year, spring fashions veer toward loose, breezy silhouettes and oversized garments. Blazers with strong shoulders are carried over from fall in a fresh range of colors and fabrics. Layered…

  • Line a Jacket Like a Pro

    Lining a jacket creates a beautiful interior finish and prolongs the garment’s life by preserving its original shape. Lined pieces slip over other garments more easily, cling less, and can…

  • focus on the waist

    Focus on the Waist to Fit Pants

    No matter how close your measurements are to those listed on a pattern’s size chart, you are likely to need some fit adjustments for comfort and appearance. With pants, a…

  • Fabulous Ponte Knits

    If you were stranded on a desert island with only one fabric to sew, it should be ponte knit. It’s not your grandmother’s polyester double-knit—the stuff of 1970s leisure suits—but…

    Departments

  • Reader Tip: Attach Tack Buttons Easily

    I like to add tack buttons, also sold as no-sew jeans buttons, to garments, especially children’s coveralls. However, I found it difficult to hammer the tack into the cap without…

  • Profiles in Sewing: Philip Odango

    From superheroes such as DC’s Aquaman and Marvel’s Doctor Strange to warriors like Moana’s Maui and The Hobbit’s Thranduil, Philip Odango has cosplayed characters of many backgrounds. Cosplay, short for…

  • 3 Notions for Spring 2020

    1. Handy spool storage Keep your thread organized in one travel-friendly case with the Perfect Thread Bag by Karen Kay Buckley. It is designed for hand sewing, because it enables…

  • A Better Way to Appliqué

    Embellished appliqué on a filmy background is lovely but may not seem easy to accomplish. Traditional appliqué methods require invisible hand stitches or heavy machine-sewn satin stitches— both of which…

  • How to Work With Minky Fabric

    Minky is a soft, 100 percent polyester knitted fabric that feels similar to faux fur. Typically, it features a short pile, sometimes with small raised polka dots. However, it can…

  • Q&A: How to Remove Creases from Leather

    Q: I have a leather vest with a stand-up collar. Over the years, the collar has started to droop and has developed diagonal creases. Is there a way to remove…

  • Q&A: Grainline on Pants

    Q: When you’re drafting or fitting a pair of pants, does the center-front seam have to be on the straight grain? Center-back seams are always slightly off-grain, but I’ve seen center-front…

  • Pattern Review: Marfy 6134 & 6135 Jacket and Dress Ensemble

    Marfy 6134 & 6135 This chic ensemble from Marfy exudes elegance. The slim-cut, unlined jacket is traditional with a modern twist. It has a wide, portrait-like open neckline with a…

  • Pattern Review: Waffle Patterns Kaneel Moto Jacket

    Waffle Patterns: Kaneel Moto Jacket This fully lined, slim-fitting jacket includes sleek details such as a stand collar with an extension and snap closure, front and back curved yokes, and…

  • mccall 7848 coat

    Pattern Review: McCall’s 7848 Coat

    McCall’s 7848 Expanded sizing options make this cozy coat a good choice for a wide range of body types. The pattern includes views for three lengths: above the knee, below…

  • victory patterns jackie dress

    Pattern Review: Victory Patterns Jackie Dress

    Victory Patterns: Jackie Dress Elevate your wardrobe with this classic silhouette that includes flattering seaming. The dress features a funnel neckline and fitted bodice, which flares into a softly draped…

  • Pattern Review: Sew Different Scoop Pinafore

    Sew Different: Scoop Pinafore This knee-length pullover jumper has a square neckline and wide straps that connect to the back panel. The front and back panels are lined. The sides…

  • Pattern Review: Vogue 9374 Pull-on Pants

    Vogue 9374 Get creative with these pull-on pants by Marcy Tilton. The pattern includes two styles, each with two length options. Both styles sit at the natural waistline. Views A…

  • Fusible Thread

    A thread that sticks Fusible thread is made from a synthetic material, usually nylon (polyamide), although some types are made from a polyester/nylon blend. In either case, the fusible thread…

  • Embroidery Virtuosa

    Many artists—from painters to photographers and embroiderers—strive to capture the beauty of nature in their medium. Sue Rangeley creates visions in thread. She grew up surrounded by lush fields in…

  • A Trick for Tuck-Marking

    Marking tucks calls for extreme accuracy: The foldlines must be parallel, on-grain, and perfectly straight—and, often, close together. Many fabrics that lend themselves to tuck details are delicate, sheer, and…

    Embellishments

  • How to Sew Slot Seams

    Decorative slot seams can add so much interest to a garment. Backed with a contrasting fabric underlay, these open seams call attention to a garment’s style lines and to the…

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