Re-create Couture Pleated Silk Organza Panels
The students in my couture sewing seminars are always presenting me (and themselves) with interesting challenges. It's fun for everyone in the class to see how things are worked out. My student Cheryl Marsh tackled something interesting just the other day, and I'd like to share it with you.
|Cheryl was inspired by a dress designed by Oscar de la Renta with a standard application of quilting; hand-finishing the seams on the inside, a hand-picked zipper, applied trim, and pleated silk oganza panels, which are the stars of this tutorial.|
She needed to make six pleated panels of various sizes: the front yoke, the two back yokes, two short sleeves, and a long horizontal panel for the bottom of the skirt. We calculated roughly how much silk organza she'd need for each panel, and she got to work. While the pleats we created were slightly bigger than those in the original dress, we liked the idea of using a blocking board's 1-inch spacing. We did a quick sample, and we were happy with the result. We did need to figure out the best way to produce the pleats, and here's what we did:
Fortunately, Cheryl brought a 20-inch by 30-inch blocking board to class. It had a sturdy padded surface with a clearly marked 1-inch grid, perfect for aligning and pinning the pleats in place. (She bought it at one of the chain stores for about $30).
|Begin by pinning all four sides of an organza strip to the blocking board, aligning the raw edges along the printed grid.|