Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King provides tips for selecting coat and jacket patterns for fake fur. Success in sewing fake fur depends, in part, on planning the right garment for the fabric.

Here are some useful guidelines for choosing an appropriate pattern:

Look for a design with a minimum of seams

The seams don’t show in the finished garment, so there’s little point in having lots of shaping seams. Straight-cut coats or those with a slight A-line shape are a good choice. Cut-on sleeves also work well with fur.

If the pattern has a center-back seam, you can usually eliminate the seam and cut the back piece on the fold.

Revise the pockets

Fake fur doesn’t lend itself to patch pockets, and traditional welts are tricky in textiles with pile. However, you can replace a pattern’s pockets with a simple slit pocket. If desired, add pocket flaps for extra flair.

Consider mixing furs

Consider designs that offer the opportunity to mix different furs. For example, a simple wrap coat with a wide shawl collar can combine short-hair fur in the body of the coat, with longer pile fur in the collar.

Fit the pattern first

Before cutting the fake fur, be sure to fit the pattern with a muslin test garment. A fur jacket or coat should have more ease than a similar garment in a lighter, less lofty fabric, so don’t over-fit.