In this episode of Smart Sewing: Fake Fur, Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King explores some refinements of faux fur construction, including how to create fabric-faced collars and pocket flaps, and how to stitch fake fur darts.

Pocket flaps and collars

To sew smaller details such as flaps and collars in fake fur, which are to be faced with lining fabric, first cut  the fur section. Be sure to include seam allowances. The method for joining the fur and lining layers is similar to the technique for joining fur and smooth fabrics.

Shave the seam allowances on all edges of the fur piece and, with right sides together, pin the fur to the lining. Tuck the pile between the layers along the edges so it doesn’t get caught in the stitches.

Sew the seams along the three outer edges, with the fur side up, using a straight stitch. Guide the seams with an awl or stiletto. At the corners, shorten the stitch to 0.5 mm, and sew for about 1/2 inch. This provides greater stability when you clip and turn the work right side out.

Trim the corners. Then cut a piece of 1/8-inch-thick polyester batting, about 1/8 inch smaller than the finished pocket size. Hand-baste it to the wrong side of the fake fur. Turn the flap right side out and pick the fur out of the seams, then brush it. The batting gives the piece a luxurious, lofty feel.

Shaping darts in fake fur

Each fake fur dart must be cold-taped along one side, and at each end. Just before sewing, cut out the dart value, then pin the dart closed with right sides together and the pile pushed to the right side. Sew the dart with a hinge, or basic, seam using a zigzag stitch. Finger-press the dart to flatten…