Learn three key techniques for sewing seams in fake fur, with Threads Contributing Editor Kenneth D. King. When working with plushy pile fabric, you can’t use traditional seams, with the fabric right sides together. Find out how to join edges to create low-bulk, invisible seams.

Hinge seam

Also called the basic seam, this method sews the fabric pieces edge to edge. Be sure you’ve prepared the seam by staying one edge with cold tape. Pin the cut edges together with long pins. Then, with a hair pick or comb, push the pile between the layers as you pin.

Set the machine to a zigzag stitch, 4.0 mm to 4.5 mm wide and 2.0 mm to 2.5 mm long. The zigzag stitch overcasts the cut edges, creating the hinge. Use an awl or stiletto to guide the fabric under the presser foot. If there are skipped stitches, simply reverse and restitch that area. Be sure to change needles frequently, as the cold tape’s adhesive can gum up the needle and cause skipped stitches.

Then open the seam and turn it wrong side up. Spread it out and push the seam to flatten it. Finally, brush the fur over the seam on the right side to hide the seamline.

Shaved seam

This seam is used for fake fur that has a woven back. Its backing tends to ravel, and a hinge seam without seam allowances is not sturdy. You won’t need to use cold tape on this type of fur.

The shaved seam is closer to a traditional seam, but in order to place the fur with right sides together, you need to remove the pile from the seam allowances. With a beard trimmer or other clipper, shave the allowances in two or more passes, and vacuum frequently during this process.

Then…