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The Perfect Blouse: Make the Pocket

Video: Threads magazine

Learn how to make the pocket from sewing instructor Sandra Miller in this episode of The Perfect Blouse series.

Construct and place the patch pocket

First, interface the top part of the pocket to the foldline, serge the top edge, and use paper-release fusible web tape along the top edge to fold it down and hold it in place. Then stitch across the pocket to secure the interfaced, folded section.

Next, create a pressing template from a manila folder. Make the template 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. It will help you press straight, crisp edges along the raw edges.

After staystitching 3/8 inch around the pocket’s raw edges, use the template to fold the edges to the wrong side. Press. Sandra explains in which order and why the raw edges should be pressed over the template.

Apply paper-release fusible web tape to the pressed edges. Then align the top left corner to the pocket mark on the shirt’s left front piece. Adhere the pocket by pressing it in place.

Edgestitch the pocket

Test your sewing machine stitches on a sample before stitching the pocket to the shirt front.

Sandra discusses two special machine feet to improve results when edgestitching.

She also suggests using a quilting needle in your machine because it is sharp and pierces the fabric well.

Her preferred stitch length for edgestitching is 2.0 mm, which is shorter than the stitch length she uses for seams.

Finally, she recommends an unusual spot to begin edgestitching the pocket to the shirt front and demonstrates how it works.

Coming up

Learn the techniques for sewing the back and sewing the shoulder seams, in the next episode.

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About This Video Series

Sandra Miller, from independent patternmaker Cutting Line Designs, hosts this 15-part series on constructing a man-tailored shirt. Sandra has come up with a method of sewing with precision and helps others to do the same. In this video series exclusive to Threads Insiders, Sandra walks through the steps for creating the shirt while explaining techniques for: shirt collars collar bands plackets four-button front sleeve plackets cuffs, and other details Note: Two new installments are released each week…

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