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The Perfect Blouse: Construct the Back and Sew the Shoulder Seams

Video: Threads magazine

Learn the techniques to construct the shirt back and sew the shoulder seams in this episode of The Perfect Blouse video series led by sewing instructor Sandra Miller. Her method includes an unusual set of steps for constructing the shirt back that she refers to as a burrito roll. The pattern used to demonstrate these methods is a traditional shirt-style blouse from Cutting Line Designs called The Blouse Perfected.

Sew the yoke

To assemble the lower back and the two yoke pieces, start with noting where there are markings on each shirt piece.

Pin the two pleats in the lower back piece, making sure the pleats are folded toward the outside of the lower back piece.

Sandwich the lower back between the two yoke sections and match the markings. Sandra offers several pinning tips to accurately accomplish this, and she demonstrates how to pin one yoke at a time to the lower back piece.

Next, sew the lower back-yoke seam. Then trim and grade the seam allowances. The allowance on the inside of the garment must be trimmed shorter than the outside seam allowance. This reduces bulk and prevents a ridge from forming near the seam.

Press the yokes away from the sewn seam on the right and wrong sides. Then edgestitch the seam using a 2.0 mm stitch length.

Sew the fronts to the outside yoke piece at the shoulder.

Make a burrito roll

Roll up the back and and two front sections separately until they rest on the outer yoke. Pin the inner yoke to the outer yoke at the shoulder seams, enclosing the rolled-up sections. This forms what looks somewhat like a burrito.

Stitch the inner and outer yokes together along the shoulder stitching lines made earlier.

Pull the rolled-up sections out through one armscye so that all…


About This Video Series

Sandra Miller, from independent patternmaker Cutting Line Designs, hosts this 15-part series on constructing a man-tailored shirt. Sandra has come up with a method of sewing with precision and helps others to do the same. In this video series exclusive to Threads Insiders, Sandra walks through the steps for creating the shirt while explaining techniques for: shirt collars collar bands plackets four-button front sleeve plackets cuffs, and other details Note: Two new installments are released each week…

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