Clone Yourself A Fitting Assistant

October 24th, 2008 in fitting     

by David Coffin
from Threads #75, pp. 37-41

A few years ago I had a custom-fitted body form made for myself, which totally changed the way I fit clothes and alter patterns. Ever since, I've been telling anyone who'll listen how useful it is to have a full-scale duplicate of your body on hand when making clothes for yourself. But the process I used (making a surgical-plaster body mold, then filling it with an industrial foam) must have seemed a bit too costly and/or demanding, since not many people appear to have followed my advice. I've recently been investigating other form-making methods that are so simple, quick, and inexpensive that I've returned to my original evangelical enthusiasm, and am ready to start shouting out the message once again: every sewer needs a dress form!

Make your own dress form, four ways: •  Duct tape dress form #1 •  Duct-tape dress form #2 •  Molded papier-mâché form •  Paper-tape dress form

What's so earthshaking about having a clone in the sewing room? It's simple: fitting is the hardest thing about sewing, especially sewing for yourself, and having a form on which to solve your fitting problems transforms the challenge from a slow, abstract process of measuring and altering outlines on a flat piece of pattern paper into an immediate, hands-on process of playing with fabric (or paper) on a 3-D version of yourself. With a few pins, some muslin, and 20 minutes, you can explore more pattern tweaks (and learn more about fitting) on a custom form than you could in hours of flat-pattern investigation on paper.

Minor adjustments become so easy and obvious when you're looking at the actual problem in fabric on "yourself" that you often don't even need a muslin or a corrected pattern. You can simply reposition the seamlines involved right on the form, when you're ready to stitch them, without worrying that the weight or drape of your fabric might throw off your elaborate flat-pattern changes. This is the process I use on my form, for example, to correct all garments for my nonsymmetrical shoulders. Of course, custom-made forms are just as useful as commercial ones for all the traditional dress-form functions--draping, visualizing, shaping collars, holding garments during sleeve insertion and hemming, and so on.

How accurate, and where?
None of these fitting benefits is possible if the form you're using doesn't mirror with reasonable accuracy your posture, the shapes that make up your shoulders, the position and angle of your neck, and the unique distribution of your body weight. These issues are typically much more important than questions of circumference, since most clothes hang from the shoulders or the waist, and don't fit snugly. And this is precisely what the custom forms presented on the following pages provide (as did my poured-foam form): an accurate recreation of your posture and your shape, while keeping within an inch or so of your current circumference measurements. Commercial forms of all kinds, even if customized, inevitably put the emphasis the other way around; that is, they can be quite accurate about overall circumference but can't as easily mimic posture or weight distribution, so that their usefulness as personal fitting and draping aids is limited.

Speed and convenience
The best feature of all but one of the do-it-yourself forms described here is that they're quick to make, using materials that are very easy to find. With either the duct-tape or paper-tape versions, you can have a working form ready in less than two hours, having spent no more than $15. This essentially eliminates the anticipated-weight- fluctuations objection I've heard so often concerning more time- or money-consuming methods, since you can so easily repeat the process, if you think it necessary, later on.

So, let's look at the form-making methods I've observed over the past few months as I visited folks who'll make a dress form at a moment's notice. Each finds her process the one that makes the most sense for her temperament and gives her results that are more than adequately accurate and durable. Take your pick, and take charge of your fitting problems once and for all!

Duct-tape dress form #1 uses ordinary duct-tape as both the body-casting material and the final form.		Duct-tape dress form #2 is a bit more dificult but produces a closer fit.
		Molded papier-mâché form (left) is an exact replica of you. Paper-tape dress form (above) is the easiest and cheapest of all.

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Comments (14)

Pokeydog writes: I don't think I would ever want a custom fitted form as my weight is always up or down. So my body double works great for me as I can change the size as needed. If I had a custom I would be spending money to make a new one everytime I wanted to make something. So for me the body double works great. Posted: 2:56 pm on November 17th

shassy writes: An update on iv pole cost. I goggled IV poles and found the one for $17 dollars after shipping the total cost is $25 to be delivered to your front door. I did look for form stands and lowest priced one was $70 before shipping and actually looks a lot like an IV pole. Posted: 1:45 pm on October 5th

shassy writes: I had a wonderful idea regarding the stand and what would possibly work. I priced IV poles and was shocked to see they ran about $17. They have the rolling wheels with locks and a nice sturdy pole. They are also adjustable in height. I am sure with a little creativity people could use them. just an idea I thought I would share. Posted: 1:23 pm on October 5th

JenWen writes: NEVER MAKE A PLASTER BODY CAST!!!
I tried the idea of making a foam double from a plaster cast of my torso. I had read around a few sites and it seemed pretty simple. My husband helped me (against his will and better judgement). We started by covering myself with a plastic garbage bag and using a bit of duct tape to define the contours. Then we used bandages already coated in plaster of paris that you just wet and apply. I had never read any warnings or possible troubles on any of the websites or forums. I had to wait 20-30 minutes for the cast to dry. It wasn't restrictive or too tight, but snug and form-fitting. After 20 minutes my husband came back out to check on me and I complained of feeling light-headed and woozy. I wanted him to start cutting it off even though it wasn't completely dry. (It was dry enough to hold its shape) After a few snips I started freaking out because I was seeing stars and I knew I was fading fast. I'm not claustrophic or anythig, by the wooziness was rapidly increasing.
The last thing I remember was my husband yelling "Hang on honey!" as I started to lean forward. I woke up in a chair that was near by, covered in vomit and shards of plaster. I had passed out and vomited everywhere while he frantically cut me out of the mold. He said I stopped breathing and my face was bright red. I don't remember feeling uncomfortable or having a hard time breathing, but somehow things went downhill fast. Maybe I was taking shallow breaths intentionally so as not to distort the mold, I don't know.
So $30 dollars, and 1 1/2 hours later I still don't have a dress form and my husband is traumatized. I don't know if duct tape would have a similar effect on me, but I'm too afraid to find out! Posted: 2:19 pm on September 19th

Buddleia writes: Hello everyone - I'm not new to sewing, by any means, but I am really new to the idea of using a dress-form. I just started a draping class and have been told that I 'must' have a form made from foam in order to use it for draping. Is this true? Or can I use one of these forms for draping? Any answers truly appreciated!

Posted: 4:12 pm on July 13th

Lady2k7 writes: Finding someone to do the tapeing is my problem. I really want to try this form. I've always padded my purchased form to duplicate all of my measurements. This is great to know! Posted: 1:40 am on June 30th

Lemonshrew writes: Great tutorial! I finally have a dress form!

The polyurethane foam was a bit out of my price range so I tried kitty litter.

It worked!

I used extra padding (paper towels) in the bust and shoulders to make sure they would keep shape, a bag of polyester stuffing in the center of the cylinder to keep the weight down and filled it up with the litter. I've moved the form several times and have had no problems with it loosing it's shape. It may eventually sag, but let's face facts, so will I! If you're on a budget like me, you might want to try it. Just make sure any holes are well sealed before you pour! Posted: 3:37 pm on May 27th

LorraineA writes: Sewbobbi mentions putting a separating zipper up the back of her duct tape form. How did she attach it? Does sewing work or would you get it all bent out of shape? Posted: 1:10 am on April 26th

Carwinian writes: You were featured in a Threadbanger episode on "how to make your own body form"!!! http://www.threadbanger.com/episode/THR_20090403 Thanks! Posted: 6:01 pm on April 3rd

darcien writes: I am thrilled to see this! I started making duct tape "mummies" about 11years ago, when a commercial pattern fit so ill and I couldn't get the adjustable dress form to adjust to ALL my measurements. I then thought to myself how much better a duct tape form would be-- though it was an original idea, I had not known others to have had the same idea, lol! Though i have moved onto packing tape instead of duct tape as packing tape does not gum up my pins.

Thanks for spreading the good idea! Posted: 3:13 pm on April 1st

nursie1 writes: I'm thinking about trying the duct tape and filling with polyurethane foam. I'm at a loss, though, as to how much to get (how many cubic feet are a torso?) and what weight to use. Has anyone tried it this way? Posted: 9:45 pm on January 26th

sewbobbi writes: I have made the Duct Tape form several times. I find it works great for a couple of years and by that time, I want a new one because my body has changed one way or another.

I am making a wedding dress for my niece, and had her complete one also. This time I put a separating zipper up the back, so it zips from neck down. I then slip it over my purchased dress form for a custom fit. This allows me to use more than one Duct Tape form on the same stand. Posted: 6:03 pm on January 3rd

SEW_WHAT writes: I HAVENT TRIED THE FORM YET ,BUT I'M SURE EXCITED ABOUT IT ,BECAUSE ITS REALLY FRUSTRATION TO MAKE AN ITEM TAKE IT OFF, PIN IT UP, SEW A LITTLE MORE, TRY IT ON AGAIN SO ON AND SO FORTH, AND ALSO I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE CAN I PURCHASE A STAND TO SUPPORT MY FORM? THANKS Posted: 5:54 am on January 2nd

JoanatChesterleStreet writes: I agree with David Coffin totally. I have, with Hubby's help made two dress forms. The first was duct tape, following a Threads article a few years back. This was relatively easy but wrapping in the right direction was essential in order to get the best shape for yourself, I found. The form turned cylindrical over time so did not keep well, but it inspired me to have a go at the plaster/ foam one. This required a very trustworthy assistant who had to promise not to open the door during the plasterwork. He was not trustworthy enough as he had decided that it was a bit extravagant to buy the plaster cutting scissors, and I bore scissor scars for a while.Our friends and family have had so much amusement at it all. We had to have two goes at the plaster wrap as the inside needed a lot of work to release a nice foam surface. I was able to do a bit of "liposuction" with this by pouring plaster onto the inside cast surface. The form really duplicated my posture so is invaluable for fitting, but is not brilliant for fitting close fitting garments as it is a tad bigger than me, even with the relining.
Being wrapped is not for the faint hearted, I am not prone to claustrophobia or fainting but I was a bit lightheaded standing so long during the process.
My dress form is kept in the wardrobe, unlike a regular dressform as it is a bit strange having my torso on display if visitors turn up because they always comment, and have a laugh. Posted: 7:08 pm on December 16th

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