Bag Your Jacket Lining
by Sandra Millett
from Threads #88, pp. 56-59
Sewing jackets is something I like to do, but lining them is another matter. By the time I get to that point in construction, I'm ready to put on my new jacket and sashay out the door. However, I've found that lining a jacket need not be difficult or time-consuming if it's inserted with the bagging method, often used by ready-to-wear manufacturers. I arrived at this conclusion after trying all the alternatives, including sewing a lining to a jacket by hand and not lining it at all. The bagging technique eliminates almost all handwork, with the major lining edges joined to the jacket by machine. Although bagging is standard in the industry, I've tweaked the procedure for the home sewer, and streamlined the steps so you won't think twice about inserting a lining. You'll get great results every time.
|Sew lining and jacket shells|
|Sew lining and jacket as usual, with these two exceptions:
1. On lining, leave opening in one side seam. Machine-baste opening closed.
2. On jacket, turn up hem and baste 1/4 in. from fold. Steam- press lightly.
|Sew lining to jacket's front edges and hem|
|1. Starting at crease formed by hem fold, and with jacket on top, pin, then sew, jacket to lining along front and neck edges to opposite hem crease.
2. To sew hem, align serged edges and stitch.
|Turn Jacket right side out|
|1. After removing basting stitches in lining's side seam, reach through opening, grab back neck area of jacket, pull jacket right side out through opening.
2. Push up lining at hemline, stitch hem with running stitch, using thread that exactly matches jacket's color and taking small bites into jacket about 1/4 in. apart.
3. Slipstitch unsewn bottom of facing.